Hello everyone!
The last couple of weeks i noticed grinding coming from the rear brakes, I was hoping it would make it till summer as I don't have a garage, no chance there.
Everything was rusted pretty bad so I just replaced everything. New calipers, caliper brackets, slider bolts, pads, rotors, hardware kit. I went from having grindy brakes that worked to no rear brakes at all.
When I bleed the rear calipers I get some brake fluid out of the bleeders but it doesn't squirt like I think it should. Master cylinder is full and calipers and lines seem like there is no air in their.
Rear brakes worked before I changed them! What am I overlooking?

 

I would suspect either defective product (doubtful) or air(assuming everything was installed correctly-ie not backwards or upside down)..I would start on the right rear and bleed, bleed ,bleed. I have seen some that take quite a bit of bleeding. I really wouldn't think that you should need alot of bleeding due to the nature of the repair but if you have no brakes...then left rear...good luck-keep an eye on the master cylinder-don't let it go empty..Jerry

 

When I took off the calipers, I tied the lines up high so I wouldn't lose any fluid. Then I took the old calipers to AZ and when i got back the front half of the master cylinder was empty. I can only assume all the fluid was in the old calipers, there was no fluid on the ground. Would this have any affect on the bleeding them? I was using the two person bleeding process with no luck.

 

I would have pinched off the lines-there is a special 'harm' free clamper type tool for this and I imagine not very expensive..Sure you could pinch them with a pair of vice grips but I'd be careful-not too tight but all that is a moot point now. If that master was empty you should re-fill it and bleed, bleed, bleed. Watching the master cylinder closely as to not let it go dry. I have no idea where the brake fluid went but if the lines were 'high' and nothing came out them, you should have had brake fluid all the way from the master to the 'high' brake line. Then I personally would have lowered the line, loosely attach the 13mm bolt to the caliper (right rear 1st,) til I saw brake fluid dripping out, mounted the caliper, tighten the 13mm bolt, open the bleeder til gravity moved brake fluid thru it, then start the bleeding process. You are already to this point. Again, I would bleed. It may take some time but it will come back. It won't hurt anything to run new brake fluid thru the system anyways but I don't think you have any choice-good luck! Jerry

 

At this point I would replace the hoses to the calipers, your this close and they will only run another $20-$30.
My 98 near chicago, did the rears twice in 3000 miles when I found out the interior of the hoses failed. looked great from the out side. Get the large bottle of brake fluid!
How do the brake lines look?

 

Brake lines are original. Last time I replaced a rear caliper it took me almost 3 hours to get rear brakes back. Then I replaced a Line running to the back last winter and it took almost two hours to get them back. I gave up easy this time as I've been sick. But at this point I have no choice but to use it with no rear brakes until I can figure it out. Will this hurt anything stopping without the rears working? If I can make it till next weekend when I feel better then I can try bleeding them again. I only use it for work, 20 miles each way.

 

With all that pumping, and the master running dry, without a doubt there is air in the ABS unit, and that's why the system is not building pressure. You will NOT get the air out of it by pumping the pedal. You will only make it worse. At this point, all you can try is this: Remove the master cover, fill the master, leave the cover off, open one rear bleeder and let it drip. It will take 10 minutes or more before the fluid comes out clear, with no bubbles. DO NOT allow the master to run dry. After the fluid comes out clear, with no bubbles, close the bleeder and open the other rear bleeder. Same program here, let it drip until no bubbles come out and close the bleeder. This side may only take 5 minutes or so. DO NOT allow the master to run dry. Fill the master & have an assistant slowly apply pressure to the brake pedal. If it doesn't firm up, slowly release and repeat until it is firm. When the pedal is firm, hold pressure on the pedal, and quickly open and close the bleeder. You don't want the pedal to go to the floor while the bleeder is open. Repeat until no bubbles exit the bleeder. Repeat on the other side. DO NOT allow the master to run dry.


If this does not work, you will need to perform the automated bleed with a scan tool capable of initiating it, then bleed all 4 wheels as you would on a non ABS equipped vehicle.


In the future when you remove a caliper, have the replacement caliper ready to install immediately. Then gravity bleed it, (usually only takes ~ 2 minutes). DO NOT allow the master to run dry. Then slowly pump and release the pedal to extend the caliper piston, which will firm up the pedal, (might take 3 or 4 strokes). Then apply firm pedal pressure and quickly open & close the bleeder until it comes out clear. Only takes one, maybe two times, and you're done. Piece of cake, if done properly

 

Thanks Captain, I will give that a try!

 

Good info Captain! I'm going to work on my rear brakes next weekend ('02 RWD). If I have to replace the caliper, I'll follow your method. I need to get some clear tubing to put over the bleeder so I can contain the mess!

 

The rear calipers are aluminum, the pistons are steel, brake fluid is hygroscopic, (attracts moisture), and there is a constant negative charge of electricity going on. All this adds up to major corrosion, and if the roads are salted in the Winter, it makes it even worse. This is why calipers, brackets, pads, rotors, hardware, guide pins, rattle clips, all needs to be replaced at each brake job. Good idea to flush the brake fluid too, (run a quart of fluid through during the gravity bleed), or have it power flushed.