thank you very much i just tried your coat hanger trick and wella i got heat on my feet

 

What a great thread! It should be stickied because this comes up so often.

I havent run across it yet but the way things are going with BravaDiva, I probably will.

Here's my addition to the communal knowledge:
Instead of classic dremel or rotozip to cut the box.. try this:

Multi-Max

You KNOW you want one .. and it really works like advertised. {Dont bother with the optional $30 grout cutter blade, though.. might work on floor tile but sux on tub surrounds}
The beauty is you can change cutter blade angle to get in close quarters. Easily controlled to cut a straight line. dunno whether I would use the knife/scraper or the toothed blade .. probably start with 'scraper'. Also it will cut a narrow slot which will help to seal using a few well placed sheet metal screws and fill with plumber ABS cement.

It doesnt matter too much whch brand you buy but make SURE the blades fit most other brands. That is the mounting hole for blades is round and there's lots of little holes around it, If the blade fits the Fein, it's fine!

 

I'm taking on this job in a week or so, thanks it seems very informative!

 

A big thank-you to gnpower and TheJuicer for the awesome walk-through of the procedure that was required to fix the no floor heat on my second gen (early 02') Chevy Blazer. Followed gnpower's advice, used the trusty dremel and voila! Broken defroster valve. Just ordered the replacement parts to solve this issue and thought I'd share the following information:

Parts needed:
VALVE - Windshield Defroster GM part # 52470781 (ACDELCO # 15-50554) cost $25.00
LEVER - Rear Windshield Defogger GM part # 52487574 cost $5.00

Lever may or may not be needed, but I felt ordering it for the extra $5.00 was worth it seeing as this was kind of time consuming and parts were coming from California, USA. Prices are Canadian dollar ordered from Edmonton, Alberta, Canada.

And lastly, when searching the net I found this helpful link here which is a link to the actual genuine GM parts breakdown of the heater box of these 2nd gen trucks. This is the same parts breakdown/list your local dealer will be referencing in regards to you requesting parts. I encourage you to print this diagram as it worked well for me. The small lever is part 20 and the valve itself (plastic door) is part 21. Hope this helps someone else fix this issue!!

 

Listen people. You can have heat now at the floor on your blazer, without taking any thing off, or spending any money. I did it. It works. Take a coat hanger wire type. Bend it in to a loop. Not a tight loop, but about one inch spread. Now bend it into a slow 90 degree. On the drivers side you have the outlet for your heat. Put the wire in this outlet and have the wire go up. You will want the wire to go up about 6 to 8 inches. This will move the door open. Have the car on and heat blowing. When you push the door you will have heat to the floor. If you don't, keep trying until you push the door. Now just keep the wire inside. Its that easy. The upper vents have there control arm. This does not stop the operation of anything else. Like i said i did it it works. This is for a broken door. Black and red lines. Hope this helps. Please try it, it does work. Saves a lot of time

 

This sounds like it could work, but in my case it wouldn't. My flap was completely broken off and just lying at the bottom of the air box attached to nothing.

 

awesome post my daughters blazer has no heat on floor . i am going to fix it for her

I to have the broken flap

I wonder if you could drill a 1/4 hole through the old flap shaft and put a 1/4 steel rod full length with some expoxy on it and repair the flap it may even be stronger than new since the pin would span the whole width stopping the twisting

 

I don't know about inserting the rod, you'd have to drill through the plastic shaft, which doesn't look like it'd be very forgiving to drilling through it. The parts themselves are $30, and the breaking is caused by using "full defrost". I just fixed mine using the GM parts #'s I listed above, and fixed it. Just worked out nicer, and should I ever have to do it again, it'd be no problem.

 

ok tore the console out today cut hole in heater box . and replaced broken damper blade worked friggin awesome no more frozen toes.


awesome thread should be a sticky

 

Okay guys,
Thanks for all the useful info. I will try the coat hanger for a temporary fix but I am a surgeon and I still need a map of where to cut a hole in my ductbox and how big. I'm sure that either my axle pin or door is cracked. My vehicle was cold one morning when I played with the actuator.This is a mistake when parts are brittle being made of plastic. One should let this vehicle warm up first in any original setting, using only the fan speed.
Please Walleye, can you send me a photo??