checked icm and wires and cap and rotor and plugs... replaced ca with 1 i had from another blazer that is good and checked timing its fine... replacing plugs and seeing what happens...

 

Might want to check the coolant temp sensor on the drivers side head. Had that problem when i bought my 98 Sonoma Highrider, from what i learned it controls the pulses for the fuel injection. Mine would crank & nothing else. Good Luck

 

i dont see any sensors on the head itself... from what i can tell between the 97 jimmy and the 98 blazer engines on the jimmy the coolant temp sensor is on the front of the intake and on the blazer they changed stuff and there is no sensor there just a plug for the hole and not even a connector coming from the wire harness... but from what ive been reading in the manual they confuse me about what is where and what kind of ignition system is on mine and it shows one thing for one system and then about something else it shows its a different system so im confused on some stuff but have tested just about everything but the cooil itself which i tried to but the book wasnt specific about how to test it cause it looked like it was telling how to test a different coil...

 

i took the rotor off and inspected it and there is a little spot under the metal piece in the middle that looks like it has burnt through a little bit but would that cause it to not fire on all cylinders and sound like it only wants to fire when the battery is weak???? is there anyway i could put something under the rotor to act as an insulator just to see if it will fire up?

 

ok so i put electrical tape on the spot of the rotor that was burned through a little and put it back together and it fired right up cut it off and hooked the fuel pump up and tried it again and it fired up again .... did leave a little bit of water (or moisture???) under the tailpipe after i cut it off and looked to see if there was any back there... smoked some but i guess thats from water in the tank. but the rotor is my problem... didnt really notice anything from just looking at it while it was on the distributor but when i took it off and looked at it i found what i thought was the problem and "rednecked" the rotor to find out that it was for sure the problem. now i have to replace it and fix a small leak and do some regular maintenance on it and get it back on or off the road ... thanks for the help and tips

 

Glad you got it and thanks for posting the fix

 

figured i would tell how i fixed it since i was on a few different forums for a few days trying to figure something out and every time i found some close to my problems nobody would tell how they fixed it they just all of the sudden stopped posting oh well... maybe this will help somebody else 1 day... REMEMBER IF YOU HAVE IGNITION PROBLEMS TO THOROUGHLY CHECK EVERYTHING OR YOU COULD MISS THE PROBLEM AND SPEND MORE THAN NEEDED TO FIX IT...

 

Usually people stop posting cuz they have no more answers

 

The coolant temp sensor is on the drivers side head has 1 single black wire that plugs in. On the 97 models there was 2 ; like the previous mentioned in front & on the head, block is the second. One controls temp guage, the other the idiot light i assume. In 98 they done away with the front one. If you have alot of miles on it u might just want to replace the whole distributor, you can buy a nice unit on ebay from skip white, for $52 shipped with 5 yr warranty. Better made than stock with aluminum shaft & base, with all brass terminals. Good Luck

 

mine has 16xxxx miles but not sure if its the original engine or if its been replaced cause there are some vacuum hoses that are plugged but it ran fine with electrical tape on the rotor.... will be a couple weeks before i replace it tho....