i just got finished doing my control arm bumpers and go to fire the truck up after sitting for about a month and the battery was dead, no problem jump it. i pulled my Buick up and hooked up the jumper cables. the battery must have been totally dead because it took a couple tries and some wait to charge up. after she fired up the ABS light stayed lit. im thinking when i did the bumpers after undoing the upper control arm from the knuckle the entire assembly flopped downward with the force of the torsion bars. then i noticed i forgot to unbolt the ABS cable from the upper arm and the cable was stretched. is it possible the speed sensors connection has been broken after pulling on the cable?

i drove the truck around the block and the ABS light continued to stay lit. when i got home i disconnected both battery terminals in the hopes of clearing any codes. after 5 minutes i restarted the truck and the light was out and i was relieved. then i drove her again so the ABS system could test the speed sensors. the light didnt come back on until i pulled back in my driveway. i again disconnected the battery this time for longer while i did an oil change on my Buick. this time when i restarted her the ABS light stayed on but when i drove her this time the light would go off then back on then off randomly, at one time the truck refused to shift into second gear and just stayed in first. the truck eventually started shifting normal again but i figured i would mention it if it might have something to do with it. any way thats where im at now and i could use some suggestions i have the truck back in the garage with front wheels off and took another look at the speed sensor cables for damage.

if my ABS module is bad what is the best course of action? it says Kelsey-Hays on mine i dont know if they are hard to find or what but if i have to replace that i really dread it please somebody give me some ideas

 

i went ahead and ordered a scanner that can do ABS codes so i can get the codes and report back. i know thats gonna be the first suggestion

 

That's most likely what happened.

Don't panic.

First, take it someplace to get the codes read from the ABS module. You haven't given a clue where you are located. If there's an O'Reilly Auto Parts near you, their Bosch code scanners read the ABS (and air bag) codes on my 1996 Bravada. I'd try there first.

If the issue is one of the front wheel speed sensors, those are available from after market sources for <$25 each. Usually, the wiring on the sensors is the only exposed wiring, and if the sensor/wires are pulled until something breaks, it's the wiring on the sensor that breaks first. I'm not sure if that's the way it is on these vehicles, but I'd be really surprised if anything past the connector plug on the sensor wires is unprotected.

 

honestly i hope thats the problem i can replace the hub no problem i have experience from working on a 2000 blazer i used to have. so i already know how to do the hubs which i will probably replace both hubs so i wont have to deal with shimming the speed sensors to get them in the right spot to keep the damn ABS light off. when my new scanner come i will pull the codes and get back, but i really hope there is no problem with my module. i have heard these EBCM are a PITA to deal with and very picky. right now i am looking over the cables for speed sensors and noticed a break in the cable at the bracket that bolts to the upper arm but it looks like its been there a while

 

hey it just occurred to me does the fact that the light stays on even before i drive the truck is not not related to the speed sensors at all? meaning i do have a problem with the module?

 

The system throws the ABS fault light when it detects a problem. There are some modes of failure for the wheel speed sensors which are detectable without moving. For example, if the wires are shorted to ground, that's obvious to the controller even if you aren't moving. I'm pretty sure an open circuit (like if you leave it unplugged) will also trip the light without even moving.

 

ahh thanks for the info hopefully thats all it is then. is there anything recommended to do now while i wait for my code reader to come? i took the wheels back off and visually inspected the components and didnt really notice anything besides the break in the cable at the bracket but the wires inside look to be undamaged so IDK

 

ok so i have an update that i think solved my problem. i think the driverside speed sensor cable is in fact damaged so ill probably be replacing both hubs. i took her for a drive today after straightening everything out and no ABS light.

 

ok i need some advice guys, im still waiting on my code reader to come. since the holiday delayed it just shipped out.

anyway i noticed on the initial key turn the ABS light does not turn on with the other dash lights, once i fire up the engine and all the dash light illuminate again the ABS light comes on with the rest then goes out. what does this mean?

 

Does it need wheel bearings?

You do get new wheel speed sensors in the bearing assemblies. Genuine GM Parts for the wheel bearing assemblies (GM Part # 12413045) list for almost $400 each and can be found online for about $225 each if you look in the right places. AC-Delco FW127 is a little more reasonably priced, but still around $200 each online. SKF and Timken bearing assemblies are less expensive, but still around $100 each online.

If the bearing is still good, and the only issue is broken wires on the ABS wheel speed sensor, I'd probably just replace the sensor that failed. Especially if I knew how I broke the wires. The sensor is GM part # 15997039, which is close to $100 at the dealers and online. Dorman 970-010 is an aftermarket equivalent, and that one is available online for under $25. In serviceable older bearings, I'd go with the Dorman. It will likely last the rest of the useful life of the bearing assembly. It's your truck and your wallet, but that's what I'd do.

It means it works a lot like my 1996. Seems like mine delayed the ABS light test. It didn't come on when the key is first turned on, but like 10 or 15 seconds later if you don't start it, and immediately after you start it if you don't wait on the light test to finish. The difference is my ABS light doesn't go off (and it's a low priority now). Actually, I temporarily "fixed" mine by pulling a fuse, now the ABS light never comes on.