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My ABS light was on all the time, then it was the Brake light and ABS. Well found out that I had alot of air in the lines so I have the ABS module and lines bled. So the Brake light went off and has not returned BUT the ABS light is still on. Now I went to the dealer and they said that I have an erratic left front sensor (Bad) so I ordered one and had it put on. The light went out BUT when ever I slow down to about 15 mph and ABS kicks in I hear the ABS motor going for 2 seconds I'm like DAM!!!! So I pulled the fuse and ordered another sensor for the right side had that installed this morning pop the fuse in and the same thing!!!![:@]

WTF is going on?

So now I have to pull the fuse B/C it is not safe to drive like that and I'm going to see the friggin ABS light again!!!!

Last week I disconnected the battery for a day thinking it would reset everything but NOOOOO....

Anyone have ideas or been throught this?

Thanks in advance....

BTW the Blazer is a 2001 LT

Jim

 

Did you clean the reluctor rings (square toothed ring inside the front wheel bearings which triggers the speed sensor) when you had the sensor out?

 

Is yourbrake pedal is soft and does it go to the floor?Typical ofa bad ABS pump and motor assembly. The Highway Loss and Data Institute (HLDI) reports that ABS brakes have not reduced the frequency or the cost of crashes.TheNational Highway and Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) says that is because some people pump ABSbrakes when attempting to stop in a panic situation.The NHTSA is covering their ***.

Welcome to the modern marvel calledS10 Blazer ABS brakes. You should feel fortunate...at least yourABS brakes don't go to the floor and apparentlythey are stillto stopping the car. Whenever my wife drives my Blazer, I cautionherthat the Blazer hasABS brakes.I personally had rather have a parachute.

When I firststart the engine after it sits overnight the idle speed goes to about 1300 RPM andmy ABS brake pedal goesto the floor. No ABS,no SES light and no brakes.When the engine runs about 10 secondsand the idle returnsto 650 - 700 RPM, I have brakes again.

I replaced the wear parts in the entire brake system: new master cylinder, front rotors, front calipers, front pads, front brake lines, rear shoes, rear wheel cylinders, rear spring kits, rear drums and bled the brakes twice. The vechicle stops reasonably well so far but I fear that some day I will jump on the brakes and there will be nothing there.

I did not bleed the ABS pumpassembly becausethat takes a special technique that is above my pay grade. I don't think my ABS pump assembly is working at all.

I was told that if you try to lock up the brakes on icy or wet pavement, the ABS pump assembly will force bleed itself...if the ABS pump isworking.

 

Do you have available to you a scan tool with brake functions? I had a 2001 in my shop the last few days(in between other things) that had a similar situation. After changing out the popular wire-which btw if you do an ohms check on your old one it may be ok. What I had was ABS kicking/fighting at 8mph and the left side sensor would only measure 3mph -then skip to eight-then read properly/work properly and then on decel go/read correctly til it hit 8mph and then drop to 3mph. I ended up per Kyle on this site taking back apart and cleaning the best I could the reluctor ring put together-spinning the hub by hand b-4 complete assembly but it had no in between read. Plug in a new bearing to the electrical harness and spin the new bearing by hand and whola-read all mph's in between 3 and 8. Installed new bearing and it's good to go. Good luck. JP[X(]