ABS and Brake Codes
#1
ABS and Brake Codes
I have been have this problem for a while with my 2003 Chevy Blazer 4x4. After about 6 months and stopping at an AutoZone to no avail. I decided to go to a dealer and found out they would read codes for free. So I did that and these and codes I got: C0241, C0242, C0245, C0251, C0252,C0265. Can someone give me insight in to this? It all appears it has something to do with EBCM. Replacing them is expensive, and I saw some places online can rebuilt the, but modulemaster.com claims there are some that can't be rebuilt. The top of mine looks like there Keysey-Haynes series 30 the bottom looks like a Keysey-Haynes 325. Oh dear, let it be a 325. How do I determine if I can rebuilt mine or if that is even the problem.
Last edited by kmartin; 06-08-2013 at 10:03 PM.
#3
So what you trying to say? Hardly notice a difference in driving. As of now, the abs may more may not work. If it cost like $1000, just tempted to let it go. I just interested in the rebuilt service if that what it takes.
#4
I have been have this problem for a while with my 2003 Chevy Blazer 4x4. After about 6 months and stopping at an AutoZone to no avail. I decided to go to a dealer and found out they would read codes for free. So I did that and these and codes I got: C0241, C0242, C0245, C0251, C0252,C0265. Can someone give me insight in to this? It all appears it has something to do with EBCM. Replacing them is expensive, and I saw some places online can rebuilt the, but modulemaster.com claims there are some that can't be rebuilt. The top of mine looks like there Keysey-Haynes series 30 the bottom looks like a Keysey-Haynes 325. Oh dear, let it be a 325. How do I determine if I can rebuilt mine or if that is even the problem.
#5
kmartin, I'm not familiar with those codes, but based on their sequence they are all chassis codes (start with C) and I think they're mostly ABS codes. This thread might have some info for you, but I don't see many of your codes listed. If it is the EBCM, you might be able to find a used one from a wrecker for a lot cheaper than a rebuilt. Also, many PnP and wreckers do offer a warranty so you can exchange it if the part doesn't work. Sorry I can't help more. If you're not comfortable replacing the EBCM yourself you may want to find a reputable mechanic to check things out for you.
#6
Do you have a detailed description of each trouble code? I'd want that before you tear into everything else. Make sure it's not just a bad hub or something else like that. If you can, post up what information you have found so far regarding your trouble codes and the symptoms you're experiencing. I don't have any direct knowledge here, but maybe someone else will chime in as you go. Good luck!
#7
C0241- The requested torque PWM signal is less than 5 percent duty cycle or greater than 95 percent duty cycle or The requested torque PWM signal is not present for 10 seconds.
C0242 - PCM Indicated TCS Malfunction
C0245- Wheel Speed Sensor Frequency Error
C0251- EBCM Control Valve Circuit
C0252- EBCM Control Valve Circuit (idk why they are the same)
C0265- EBCM relay/amplifier circuit open
it is unlikely for this many problems to be cause at once, it is most likely the EBCM. Code C0265 is a fault within the ECBM itself and would call for it to be replaced anyway.
C0242 - PCM Indicated TCS Malfunction
C0245- Wheel Speed Sensor Frequency Error
C0251- EBCM Control Valve Circuit
C0252- EBCM Control Valve Circuit (idk why they are the same)
C0265- EBCM relay/amplifier circuit open
it is unlikely for this many problems to be cause at once, it is most likely the EBCM. Code C0265 is a fault within the ECBM itself and would call for it to be replaced anyway.
#8
I sent mine to someplace out West many years ago. Montana? Idaho?
I found it on Google. It was repaired and returned within a week.
No issues since. Worth it, for me. IIRC it was about $250 + shipping then.
Easy to R&R.
It's OK to drive without it. Just won't have ABS.
Cover the opening with tinfoil or saran wrap.
I found it on Google. It was repaired and returned within a week.
No issues since. Worth it, for me. IIRC it was about $250 + shipping then.
Easy to R&R.
It's OK to drive without it. Just won't have ABS.
Cover the opening with tinfoil or saran wrap.
#9
I don't have much more info. AndrewO1991 has posted about what I knew already except for some of the codes. Only noticeable symptoms is the abs and brake lights come on and stay on till you shut off the vehicle. When you go run it again it may or not come on. 40boy, you are probably thinking of Module Master. I decide to proceed with a module rebuild and after doing some research I am going with cheapabs.com. They have good reviews and they are close to me in Virginia, only about a day in ground shipping for me. Module Master I would need to send across the US. When I communicated to some of the rebuilders, they all indicated that I do have a Kelsey Hayes 325. That's a good start.
Last edited by kmartin; 06-12-2013 at 04:00 PM.