We recently purchased a 1998 Chevrolet blazer the abs light was on from the get go. Now the break light is on. We hooked the computer to it and got no error codes and it isn't the fuses. Anyone know the next logical step? The breaks work fine the emergency break is broken but isn't engaged.

Thanks in advanced for any help!

 

If the ABS light is on, there is a DTC, (Diagnostic Trouble Code) in memory, (at least one). You need an ABS capable scan tool to retrieve ABS DTC's. The chain type auto parts stores sell them. Most stores will retrieve powertrain DTC's for free, but they will not retrieve ABS codes.

 

Thanks I will put and abs capable scanner on our list of things to get.

 

guessing it has something to do with the speed sensor

 

From looking it up I see that by each axel there should be one of these sensors. Is there anything that would be a visual clue to them being bad or is this an issue that can only be shown by a code to tell me.

 

Hey there--wife drives an 01 Bravada that the ABS and brake lights are on most of the time. When the lights are on--ABS does not work. When the lights are off--ABS works fine. I've been told by two separate mechanics that the ABS controller module needs replacement; it is expensive to the tune of $1300 from the stealership. Good used ones are apparently hard to come by.

 

When I had my 96, both lights would come on, guy selling it didn't know what was wrong, but it did have a weak battery. I replaced the battery and it pretty much cleared it up. As I learned the little quirks that all cars have, I found if I started the truck and turned the ignition key too far, both lights would come on, so I learned to back the key back a bit as I started it, and never had a problem again...one of those things

 

Our battery is pretty old and well when we purchased it we'll just say almost everything that we went hmm this feel odd was fixed by filling something as nothing seems to have ever been filled recently lol. The truck runs great though.

 

Your 1998 has 3 sensors: one at each front wheel and one where the rear driveshaft connects to the transfer case, (4WD) or transmission, (2WD). You can visually check for obvious damage, but the DTC will point you in the right direction for diagnosis. Keep in mind that the DTC will not tell you to replace a part, it tells you what circuit to diagnose. Post the DTC and we can help you with diagnosis.

 

What area do you live in? If you know anyone with a scan tool (tech 1 or tech 2) you can diagnose your ABS system. If you live in the Portland/Vancouver area I may be able to assist.

What are the indications? Does the ABS light come during the start cycle and then stay on or does it come on after reaching 7-10 mph?

About the E-brake...Is the pedal down any distance? Try releasing using the handle and pulling the the pedal up to the full release position.