I've had more than one vehicle with the ABS light lit for years. Could any of you guys check and see what your amp draw is for the ABS across the the fuse block? I have some and don't see why there should be any.

 

Why should the ABS system not draw any current through its fuse?

George

 

I don't know if it should or not but I can't understand why it would need any while the vehicle is sitting with the key off. That's why I'd like to hear if other vehicles experience it too.

 

What is the level of current that you measured for the ABS with the ignition off?

MDZ320: the common fix is to take the ABS module out, remove the cover and resolder about everything. If you are not comfortable taking the ABS apart, I offer to do it for you, you just have to pay for shipping both ways. I think it will fit into a small USPS Priority box...although I have not tried it.

Later,

 

I'll write it down when I look at it tomorrow and see what you think of it. I have several drains and can't remember exactly which were what.

Thanks

 

Here's a picture of what I have on it. I am not an electronics tech and I don't know what the readings mean on the meter. Also, changing the mA setting does not change where that needle sits when taking the reading. The reading from my seat heaters goes off the scale but I don't really need them, it would just be nice to know what they mean.

 

If changing the DC ma scale does not move the needle, then either the meter is incorrectly connected or the meter is broken.
The meter needs to be connected between the battery neg terminal and the neg battery cable. Connect the red lead to the neg battery cable, black lead to the neg battery terminal. (Neg battery cable is off of the battery.)
Have meter on 250 scale. If needle tries to go to less than zero, reverse the red and black leads.

Once meter is indicating a current, find the scale that goes from 0 to 250 for DC ma. Read that number, if less than 50, switch to the 50 ma scale to get a more accurate reading.

 

Thanks. I broke down and bought a Fluke VOM that I could rely on. Apparently the one I was using does not read mA very well. All is good now.

 

"All is good now."...meaning that you do not have a current draw with everything off?

 

It looks like the meter I was using was not working correctly and it made a small drain look like a yyuuuuugge one. I bought a new Fluke VOM and the draw from the ABS module is so small that it barely reads it.