The transfer case is shifting into 4WD HI and LO but, the axle is not engaging in the right axle tube. It will need to be disassembled to diagnose it. Parts 9 through 23 all have to do with engaging the axle:







16" is good however, it should hold when you shut the engine off. There is another problem somewhere, possibly a faulty vacuum check valve or a leak between the check valve and the axle acutator, (vacuum reservoir, transfer case vacuum switch, HVAC mode switch, or associated vacuum lines).

 

thanks again man, is it a very complicated job disassembling the axle tube and diagnosing which part is worn or broken and is it doable by the diy'er like myself? and are there posts on this site about this?? I'm gonna check it out.

 

The most time consuming part is removing the half shaft, after that it's about 15 minutes work. I just recently helped another member do the same job in this thread: https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...working-75064/ Pretty lenghty thread but it ended up that the clutch sleeve & gears were messed up.

 

I took these pictures and am wondering if anyone can guide me through taking the axle tube out and apart so I can diagnose it and hopefully fix it.

 

You need to remove the right side halfshaft, (the rusty part in the image on the left) and the 2 nuts holding the tube to the frame, (also in the same image). The shift cable needs to be disconnected from the actuator under the battery, and the bolts holding the tube to the differential, (image on the right).

 

Thanks captain, so the CV joint/half shaft disconnects fron axle tube by prying it out right? I found another post of yours that shows how to remove the CV joint/half shaft and it seems pretty involved and timely. Does it absolutely have to be removed in order to take out the axle tube? thanks again!! I'm sure I'm gonna have some more questions once I get it out next weekend but I will try to avoid repeating the same questions others have already asked.

 

The halfshaft just pops out of the axle tube, usually have to rap on it with a block of wood and a hammer. It must be removed to remove the axle tube. In order to remove the halfshaft though, the caliper, caliper bracket, rotor and axle nut must all be removed, or moved out of the way. Then seperate the outer tie rod end from the steering knuckle and the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle. Then disengage the outer end of the halfshaft from the hub and remove the halfshaft. Yup, it takes a while, and it's messy too

 

i got a different actuator cable for free from junkyard because I bought bravada 1 pc axle and tube there for $30. I first took old cable out, lubed it up and it did not seem to bind or be stretched. I tried both original and used cables and neither caused 4wd to engage. I took the end off the actuator and pulled with vice grips too but no action. I then took tube off (everyone was right, a PITA, but I followed all instructions, thanks again), and looked at the pieces. The teeth were worn down pretty bad. So I assume that's why it isn't working. I wanna put the bravada axle tube in and I think I got it pretty much figured out except the seals. Do the seals go in the diff or the end of the axle tube? From studying the exlpoded view diagram, it seems there is one solitary seal on the CV end of the axle tube, correct, or are there others? Thanks again, I'm gonna get this thing going before the winter ends so I can go wheelin. (7 inches of snow today and I'm driving a minivan). :icon_c lapclap:

 

The seal goes in the outboard end of the axle tube. If you use the Bravada axle tube, the right axle will be engaged all the time, which will send the TCCM into a tizzy because of the axle engagement switch.

 

With the bravada axle set-up, can I still go from 4HI to 4LO? The info I read said the axle and front drive shaft will always spin, even in 2WD and maybe decrease MPG and cause extra wear on the diff and related components and I may be OK with that but, how can I go back and forth from 2 HI an LO? There is an electrical switch on the other axle tube that is not on the bravada, I understand this is waht tells transfer case/TCCM to go into 4 HI or LO. Is this really the best way to go compared withh the vacuum actuated set-up?