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any hints on trans removal?

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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 07:56 PM
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im going to be replacing my trans here in a few weeks. started losing 4th on the highway, and now 2nd is going as well. ive already got one ordered. im just wondering if there is any special tricks or tips that will aid me in getting it out smoothly. i dont have a garage let alone a paved driveway to work in. is it possible to leave the transfer case in the truck, or does that have to come still attached to the trans?
 
Old Jun 13, 2010 | 10:55 AM
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i also plan on doing the fuel spider and intake gaskets while im at it, are the trans top bolts 9/16" like most others? i have a flex head ratcheting wrench that would probably be ideal since the intake will be off. but how about the transfer case, what do i end up doing with that?
 
Old Jun 15, 2010 | 08:34 PM
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wow this place is helpful
 
Old Jun 15, 2010 | 09:48 PM
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the tcase has to come out. It is going to be a pita to do it in the driveway but it is possible. I dont remember the bolt sizes but you will need atleast a 2ft extension to get to all the bolts. You have to remove the starter to get to the torque converter bolts. You will also want a jack and somebody to help you so you dont drop the tcase of trans on yourself.
 
Old Jun 16, 2010 | 10:11 AM
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lots of P.B. Blaster, if possible a high torque impact gun(more than 250ft lbs) most of the bolts are 13mm, 15mm, and 18mm, remove the t-case
from the adapter(leve the adapter on the trans)the transmission safty switch has some sort of glue inside of the connectors, i used a heat gun to soften the glue up to dissconnect the two plug in connectors, and dont forget to position the trans dip stick tube in first when reinstalling the trans, its almost impossible to do it after trans is installed, take your time,
and replace the rear crank seal while the trans is out.
hope this input helps
 
Old Jun 17, 2010 | 08:27 PM
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alright, thanks. is there any seal needed between the trans and transfer case? im under the assumption each is its own sealed oiling
 
Old Jun 17, 2010 | 09:39 PM
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You will definitely need a long extension and swivel socket, You will need to take the crossmember off the trans and lower to it to get the bolts out. You have to remove the transfer case first. Yes replace your rear main oil seal since you are there. You are going to have a big problem if you do not have at lease cement to work on it is not to bad if you don't have a garage but if you don't even have cement to work on you better have some help and a good jack and be careful. GOOD LUCK
 
Old Jun 17, 2010 | 10:34 PM
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yes there is a gasket between the tcase and trans, if i remember,
GM charged me $12.00 for it. be carefull when reinstalling the tcase with the new gasket, not a lot of room to work in and could tear or break the gasket if not carefull, tis is a excellent time for a helper tha is a good
jack man, and the tcase is heavy
 
Old Jun 18, 2010 | 08:50 PM
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im used to work on heavy duty trucks, so the weight isnt much of an issues. i was going to lay down some plywood and rent a trans jack to do it with, and just ratchet strap it to it. im pretty certain i have to remove my y-pipe, correct? i know its a good idea to do the rms while im at it, but i dont think my motor has more than 40k miles to it before that needs to be pulled out and rebuilt
 
Old Jun 18, 2010 | 09:08 PM
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You will kick yourself in the but when you put every thing back together and the rear main starts leaking and you have to do it all over again. The trans bolts are either 14 or 15 MM and I noticed you are going to replace the spider and the lower intake gaskets. Have you priced a spider assembly? If it is not broke don't fix it.
 



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