Great! Thats what I like to hear! I will post up tonight after I replace this thermo to let anyone know that comes along this thread in the future what fixed it

 

So, new thermostat is in. 195. Bled the lines of air pretty good. Could havedonebetter on the bleeding but it is all getting drained tomorrow anyways.

Air still is not very warm coming out of the vents, but there is a change in the temp gauge. Now it goes up to arouind 200 and I think to myself "oh boy HEAT!", then it opens, and the temp falls all the way back down to 150 or so. Then starts over. Climbs back up, opens, and falls 40-50 degrees again.Is this normal?

I went and drove it around town for maybe a half hour and it did this the whole time. Up and down, up and down, up and down, but still the heat out of the vents didn't get very warm, and it is 43 degrees out right so so it is not like it is bitterly cold so I think it would work really good right now shouldn't it?

What do I have going on?!?!?!?!

 

Sure sounds like you still have air in the system.

 

You think that is what is still causing it? I guess I will find out tomorrow when I get it flushed and they refill it. I will keep you guys posted! Thanks again

 

These hoses do not have coil springs inside them like older hoses do. They are made to hold their shape. If the hoses are collapsing when the truck cools off, they need to be replaced. If they are holding their shape, then do not worry about it.

 

Don't they come with them from the factory ?You can squeeze any rubber hose. warm or cold.Dayco doesn't come with them, Delco's I'm not sure. According to the shop manual it shows the springs/coils in there andI just don't understand how is jacking up the car gonna get the air out of a sealed system? Ain't I gonna just trap the air at the highest point heater core?

 

You run it with the cap off so it is not a sealed system. Even if you were to leave the cap on, the air would collect in the radiator keeping it from the engine where it can cause problems. The point of raising the front end is so that the radiator, specifically the cap side of the radiator, is the highest point, not the heater core.

The only radiator hose that may have had one is the lower (suction) hose. On my old 2000 Bravada, the hoses were factory and they did not have a spring in them. Most newer hoses are constructed to be collapse free during operation, not requiring springs in them. Grabbing a hold of them and squeezing is different though and you should be able to squeeze them together. The hose should go right back to being round though.

 

Ok Kyle,
I gotta try to get this done today, should it be up temp? when I lift it or lift it and let it run? I have 16# cap on it. is that right? I appreciate all your help as usuall. Thanks, Pal.

 

Just jack up the front end, getting the passenger side just a bit higher than the driver side. Then run the truck up to operating temperature, let it cool (add coolant as necessary) and repeat. The last time you run it up to temperature, put the cap on and put it back on the ground. Make sure that the overflow bottle is up to the proper level (or a little higher) and you should be good to go.

A 16# cap is just what the general ordered.

 

Okay Buddy,
I'll check in after post my result, Have a good day buddy.