Anyone ever seen this issue before?
New Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 74
From: Napa, CA
What is your battery voltage when you do this testing? Last I saw it was dropping under 10V, don't expect anything to work right then!
I often do my electrical testing with a 10 amp charger connected. It gives you normal running voltage and keeps the door light, daytime running lights, etc from draining your batt. Since I then know batt is "fixed" over 14V, if I measure a voltage else where around 12 or less, it's time to look at those related connections.
As for the security light, as you described it, sounds like it's working. Maybe it can do an auto relearn.
If your after market alarm has a "starting disable" relay, that could effect it, depending on how it hooks up. The more customizing thats been done the less we can help :/
I often do my electrical testing with a 10 amp charger connected. It gives you normal running voltage and keeps the door light, daytime running lights, etc from draining your batt. Since I then know batt is "fixed" over 14V, if I measure a voltage else where around 12 or less, it's time to look at those related connections.
As for the security light, as you described it, sounds like it's working. Maybe it can do an auto relearn.
If your after market alarm has a "starting disable" relay, that could effect it, depending on how it hooks up. The more customizing thats been done the less we can help :/
New Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 74
From: Napa, CA
If you've been under the dash, near the brake pedal, there is a switch there that turns on the brake lights. Is the switch stuck, or not adjusted right? Is the pedal stuck on anything?
What is your battery at now? DO NOT question any module unless the battery is over 12V !!! They may still run at less, but they may not! Most do not work right, if it all, under 10V AT the module connector.
Just an FYI: I almost replaced the ECM once, only to find out it was bad ground connections. Bat was over 12, but module was around 8.5V at the connector. Cost nothing to fix.
What is your battery at now? DO NOT question any module unless the battery is over 12V !!! They may still run at less, but they may not! Most do not work right, if it all, under 10V AT the module connector.
Just an FYI: I almost replaced the ECM once, only to find out it was bad ground connections. Bat was over 12, but module was around 8.5V at the connector. Cost nothing to fix.
Thread Starter
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Beginning Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 43
If you've been under the dash, near the brake pedal, there is a switch there that turns on the brake lights. Is the switch stuck, or not adjusted right? Is the pedal stuck on anything?
What is your battery at now? DO NOT question any module unless the battery is over 12V !!! They may still run at less, but they may not! Most do not work right, if it all, under 10V AT the module connector.
Just an FYI: I almost replaced the ECM once, only to find out it was bad ground connections. Bat was over 12, but module was around 8.5V at the connector. Cost nothing to fix.
What is your battery at now? DO NOT question any module unless the battery is over 12V !!! They may still run at less, but they may not! Most do not work right, if it all, under 10V AT the module connector.
Just an FYI: I almost replaced the ECM once, only to find out it was bad ground connections. Bat was over 12, but module was around 8.5V at the connector. Cost nothing to fix.
i'll have more info for you tommorow
New Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 74
From: Napa, CA
Electrical diagnosis is all about procedure! Spending time with a meter can save you hundreds of dollars!
ALWAYS make sure the batt is over 12, I check it all the time when working, every 5 mins or so. And maybe start with fuses first
Not just a quick look, meter them!
ALWAYS make sure the batt is over 12, I check it all the time when working, every 5 mins or so. And maybe start with fuses first
Not just a quick look, meter them!