Bad fuel pressure regulator?
#1
![Default](https://blazerforum.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hey guys I've been chasing some gremlins in my 96 blazer for a while now and I'm lost. I know when a fpr goes bad in most cases they leak raw fuel into the intake but is it possible that they can become restricted or fail in some other manner?
My problem began a couple of months ago with a hesitation and what sounds like a miss. I would occasionally get a p0301 when accelerating hard then it would dissapear and some times a p1406. fuel pressure is 60psi at start up and 56 while running. I went to change my fuel pump one day and my intake gasket blew out spewing coolant all over so I pulled the intake and replaced the gaskets. the car ran great for a week but had a p1406 then the p1406 went away and it started running bad again. Ive cleaned and swaped the egr out many times and still no change the car will die out at stop signs and barely idle sometimes (with no codes) but other times it will run fine.
The car will start with the greatest of ease in the morning but if i drive it and go to start it it will take 5 seconds to start. thinking this might be related to a bad fpr I looked in the intake and theres no excessive gas smell or signs of puddles. the only ideas I have left are distubtor or fpr but im lost. I'm gonna pull the upper intake tonight to take a closer look but any help will be apreciated!
Heres what ive done so far,
plugs, wires, cap, rotor, intake gaskets, fuel pump and 2 new filters, pcv cleaned the engine ground, checked the whole engine for vacum leaks.
My problem began a couple of months ago with a hesitation and what sounds like a miss. I would occasionally get a p0301 when accelerating hard then it would dissapear and some times a p1406. fuel pressure is 60psi at start up and 56 while running. I went to change my fuel pump one day and my intake gasket blew out spewing coolant all over so I pulled the intake and replaced the gaskets. the car ran great for a week but had a p1406 then the p1406 went away and it started running bad again. Ive cleaned and swaped the egr out many times and still no change the car will die out at stop signs and barely idle sometimes (with no codes) but other times it will run fine.
The car will start with the greatest of ease in the morning but if i drive it and go to start it it will take 5 seconds to start. thinking this might be related to a bad fpr I looked in the intake and theres no excessive gas smell or signs of puddles. the only ideas I have left are distubtor or fpr but im lost. I'm gonna pull the upper intake tonight to take a closer look but any help will be apreciated!
Heres what ive done so far,
plugs, wires, cap, rotor, intake gaskets, fuel pump and 2 new filters, pcv cleaned the engine ground, checked the whole engine for vacum leaks.
#2
![Default](https://blazerforum.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
may want to check the spider injector. i'm having a similar problem with my blazer changed the intake and next day runs like crap hit the gas gets better po300 code pressure is good pulled my air intake off my throttle body and raw fuel smell really bad its got to be the FPR or injectors on mine. just check the spider with top intake off hook the lines back up turn key on and see if any leak is present.
#3
![Default](https://blazerforum.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It's possible for a FPR to be bad with no obvious sign of 'washing' or drips from the vacuum port.
In fact it's common to find that on fuel rail type systems. You pull the vac line and find gas in it but run FP for minutes and no gas comes out. Yet change it out and it fixes the problem.
To see if there's gas in the vac port blow air from an aerosol duster or air tank across it.
Suggest run PRessure/ leakdown test.
In fact it's common to find that on fuel rail type systems. You pull the vac line and find gas in it but run FP for minutes and no gas comes out. Yet change it out and it fixes the problem.
To see if there's gas in the vac port blow air from an aerosol duster or air tank across it.
Suggest run PRessure/ leakdown test.
Last edited by pettyfog; 01-25-2012 at 02:42 PM.
#4
![Default](https://blazerforum.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I was talking with the guy who lives next door to me and is a Mech and he stated if the Pressure reg is bad, there would be smoke coming out of the tail pipe. Due to gas leaking into the engine and mixing with the oil. I just change the oil and filter on my 2000 blazer 4x4 4.3 and I have never seen as much sluge in my oil the 10 yrs I have own it. (Been having a starting problem myself). I drain the oil into a pan then remove it from the pan back into the 5 qt jug that I bought it with. After the pan was empty, I get a rag or two and wipe the pan dry, this time there was a ton of sluge at the bottom of the pan...I must have a clean engine by now..hahahahahaha..little scary thou. I change the oil every 3-4K only and the next oil change I include the filter with the change. Have never use a drop of oil in between changes since I bought it in 2002. Of course I have the oil coolers line dip, I call it my Harley, you always know you have oil while its dipping. hahahahahha.
#5
![Default](https://blazerforum.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Dman;
The guy living next door to you who is a mech and probably has an ASE.. is a dumbass. And I wouldnt want him working on my car unless he's closely supervised.
But you got worse problems than the OP, if you have all that sludge in your oil. I would tell you why but you've had a blazer a long time and you been on here a few years so I guess you know what that is all about.
Sorry
The guy living next door to you who is a mech and probably has an ASE.. is a dumbass. And I wouldnt want him working on my car unless he's closely supervised.
But you got worse problems than the OP, if you have all that sludge in your oil. I would tell you why but you've had a blazer a long time and you been on here a few years so I guess you know what that is all about.
Sorry
Last edited by pettyfog; 01-26-2012 at 12:42 PM.
#6
![Default](https://blazerforum.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hey Super
Why dont you tell us why he would have all that sludge in the oil. I did see that happen on an old slant six but not sure what would cause that.
Why dont you tell us why he would have all that sludge in the oil. I did see that happen on an old slant six but not sure what would cause that.
#7
![Default](https://blazerforum.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I kind of thought what he said was wierd...but, me being a good neigbor said nothing and left with my mouth close. With the same thoughts as you, this guy is not working on my truck....The sludge I figure came from the Sea foam I put in the engine awhile back or a gas leak under the intake. (Spider or Power Reg), I do have a starting problem but have figure out how to start it without to much effort. But, won't take it on a long trip thats for sure, just around town now since it is my 2nd ride now. (Brought a 2011 LTZ NOX and thats another story with the engine rattling on start up).
I sure do like this board, gives great insight for a ton of situations..
Thanks all, keep up the good work...
I sure do like this board, gives great insight for a ton of situations..
Thanks all, keep up the good work...
#8
![Default](https://blazerforum.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The sludge I figure came from the Sea foam I put in the engine awhile back or a gas leak under the intake. (Spider or Power Reg), I do have a starting problem but have figure out how to start it without to much effort. But, won't take it on a long trip thats for sure, just around town now since it is my 2nd ride now. (Brought a 2011 LTZ NOX and thats another story with the engine rattling on start up).
I sure do like this board, gives great insight for a ton of situations..
I sure do like this board, gives great insight for a ton of situations..
Check around top of dipstick, oil filler cap, pcv for brown sludge.
Cause: LIM gaskets very often
#9
![Default](https://blazerforum.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I stay on top of the motor maintance, changing as required or sooner. But, Now since this in my 2nd car and doesn't driven as much as before, the problems have started. Just like a house not live in will start to far apart.
I put maybe a 1,000 miles per year on it now, before was around 7,000 per yr. (Not a big driver since I have retired). I change my oil every 3,000 if its needs it or not. Plugs, cap, and rotor at 50K, then 100K. Have already change out the radiator about 2 yrs ago, it blew at the seams (Common). Belt tensioner 3 times in 10 yrs. 2 alts, 3 batts, 1 set of tires, new bakes all the way around and rotors. (Change the front at 50K didn't need it but did it anyhow, the rear at 90K and believe it or not they were at least 3/4 pad left, but again did it anyhow). The belt at around 30K with a life time warranty. The fan clucth twice, the 1st was a bad one and didn't last long but again life time warranty. I buy only the top shelf parts with life time warrantys if they have them..
Now my oil I use that High Mileage oil that 1/2 and 1/2, never had any problems before and a Fram oil filter. With a 105K I still have the org front end under it, I keep them babys full of grease. Trans Flush at 50K and the filter was pretty dirty, plan on doing it again soon. (Like when I get up off my oil lazy butt and do it). Oh and change the front and real shocks at 50K. I know there is more, but typing this is making me tire and I need a nap..hahahahahahahaha..
But as you can see since I don't put that much mileage on the truck now days, I change the oil and filter every 6 months. I know it has to be breaking down with the heat here in AZ....Yawnnnnnnnn...Chow
I put maybe a 1,000 miles per year on it now, before was around 7,000 per yr. (Not a big driver since I have retired). I change my oil every 3,000 if its needs it or not. Plugs, cap, and rotor at 50K, then 100K. Have already change out the radiator about 2 yrs ago, it blew at the seams (Common). Belt tensioner 3 times in 10 yrs. 2 alts, 3 batts, 1 set of tires, new bakes all the way around and rotors. (Change the front at 50K didn't need it but did it anyhow, the rear at 90K and believe it or not they were at least 3/4 pad left, but again did it anyhow). The belt at around 30K with a life time warranty. The fan clucth twice, the 1st was a bad one and didn't last long but again life time warranty. I buy only the top shelf parts with life time warrantys if they have them..
Now my oil I use that High Mileage oil that 1/2 and 1/2, never had any problems before and a Fram oil filter. With a 105K I still have the org front end under it, I keep them babys full of grease. Trans Flush at 50K and the filter was pretty dirty, plan on doing it again soon. (Like when I get up off my oil lazy butt and do it). Oh and change the front and real shocks at 50K. I know there is more, but typing this is making me tire and I need a nap..hahahahahahahaha..
But as you can see since I don't put that much mileage on the truck now days, I change the oil and filter every 6 months. I know it has to be breaking down with the heat here in AZ....Yawnnnnnnnn...Chow
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Terje
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
10
11-04-2017 08:19 AM
big armo
Engine & Transmission
4
06-23-2011 09:33 PM
cage47
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
2
04-09-2009 10:07 AM
vifa84
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
1
07-07-2007 01:58 PM
jlinder
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
1
08-21-2005 11:08 AM