If you're replacing the ball joint, go ahead and use a pickle fork, a new boot comes with the new joint. As for the hubs.... cheap quality bearings and or incorrect camber will wear the bearings prematurely.

 

So do you typically replace the whole hub, or do you just replace the bearings? Only time I've done bearings was on my old Toyota pickup, and it was just some roller bearings. When I look online, it looks like people are replacing whole hub assemblies, but I also found parts for just bearings.

Weather turned on me, so never got to do this over the weekend. I may have to hope it all holds together another 500 miles, and get it done at a relatives place next week.

 

Are you sure? If you can get 'em what are you going to do then?Okay.. just remember this is another situation where there's cheap parts and there's good parts.

 

Loosen axle nut to end of threads, but do not remove.
Place a floor jack under the lower control arm and lift to remove tire.
Remove lower shock bolt
Then let lower control arm go down until upper arm stops movement.
Then loosen the lower ball joint nut to the ends of the threads.
Use the two hammers or pickle fork to separate lower.
Then loosen upper ball joint nut to end of threads.
Use the two hammers or pickle fork to separate.

Then remove both ball joint nuts and lift spindle out of way.

Of course the caliper and hose clamps will need to be removed first.

Not a complete step by step...but just from memory of doing mine last year.

Good luck....and you will need another alignment when done.

 

No. It's possible that what I saw was only for the rear.

There is such a huge difference in the hub pricing too. I can find some on Amazon for ~$50, autoparts store had ACDELCO for ~$100, which is about the same as most of them on Rock Auto, but then the Moog are of course, $180 each.

I bought the Moog parts for the ball joints, but I don't think I can afford to do the Moog hubs. I'll have to find the best cheap ones....

 

I definitely need some help here.

I have one side apart, but I can not get the lower ball joint stud to come loose from the steering knuckle. I have a pickle fork, and have beat the hell out of it with a 3lb hammer, and nothing. I tried a pittman tool, but it won't move over enough to center on the stud to push on it.

I really need some idea on what else to try. I got the upper joint swapped out, but currently have the nut on the upper joint loose so the steering knuckle can be moved around some.

 

You need an anvil on the opposite side of where you're hitting it.
Like the head of a sledge.

 

Would penetrating oil, or heat help?

 

No not at all. Just hit it HARD, nothing is going to break. Penetrating oil is not going to get into that mecanical weld. Remember those arms are made to withstand crashes, you and your hammers will only hurt flesh. Do it when you are fresh and not fatigued or you will be paying of a hand surgeon.

 

How about something like this:

3/4" Forged Ball Point Joint Separator

Looking at it, I wonder if it would get in there well enough to pry them apart.