Barely running 4.3
#21
Beginning Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 16

I believe I've solved the fuel pressure leak down with the new spider assembly, which included a new FPR. Engine starts up immediately now and idles pretty smooth. The LIM is interesting though. I'm wondering if this may be where one of my coolant leaks is coming from. I'm seeing indirectly a leak that looks as if it is starting from up and under front intake under gooseneck, behind water pump, and it's pretty substantial. I took a break from it today, and will check it better tomorrow as well as check cat too.
Lanny, I may take you up on the cat install if this one proves faulty. Thanks guys.
Lanny, I may take you up on the cat install if this one proves faulty. Thanks guys.
#24
If you end up replacing the lower intake gasket, use Felpro MS98002T. Do yourself a huge favor before you remove the distributor: Use a socket & ratchet on the crankshaft bolt and manually rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the rotor is aligned with the "6" on the distributor housing. Then, DO NOT move the crankshaft while the distributor is removed. When reinstalling the distributor, make sure the rotor is aligned with the "6" when the distributor is fully seated against the manifold.
#25
Beginning Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 16

If you end up replacing the lower intake gasket, use Felpro MS98002T. Do yourself a huge favor before you remove the distributor: Use a socket & ratchet on the crankshaft bolt and manually rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the rotor is aligned with the "6" on the distributor housing. Then, DO NOT move the crankshaft while the distributor is removed. When reinstalling the distributor, make sure the rotor is aligned with the "6" when the distributor is fully seated against the manifold.


#26
Beginning Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 16

The cat may be clogged due to the rich fuel condition; it may get better if driven for awhile and allowed to get up to operating temp....may be. Quick way to check is to pull one of the pre-cat O2 sensors out and see if the bogging-down is still present. This will set a code of course and do not run engine like this for very long as the hot exhaust gases are hitting areas that they are not supposed to and will likely cause damage/fire/melted connectors...etc.
If possible wedge a piece of sheet metal to deflect the hot exhaust gases down.
Just an idea.
If possible wedge a piece of sheet metal to deflect the hot exhaust gases down.
Just an idea.
#28
You could seek out a used Y pipe from a salvage yard. It should mate up with a oem cat and then on to the muffler. Most have the flange cut off and an aftermarket cat welded on. With some good luck a Y pipe with the flange in tact is out there. I like keeping things stock. Never know when you need to separate the exhaust system and a welded system must be cut to do this.
#29
Beginning Member
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 16

Would the pre-converter also get fouled or clogged like the regular catalytic converter and need replaced, because of raw fuel entering exhaust system? I'm trying to determine if I should just purchase an aftermarket cat and fit/weld/bolt it in place of existing one, or, purchase complete unit like Captain Hook has shown. Cost is a consideration, and it appears to be a several hundred dollar difference.





