I have a 2000 4dr 4wd blazer. How do I get the oil lines from the remote filter block to the standard position out? The large aluminum block will not fit through the hole. I have 154000 and they are leaking very badly. I need to do something so I can get another 154000.

 

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1. Remove the steering linkage shield.
2. Remove the bolt attaching the engine oil cooler lines to the remote (frame mounted) oil filter adapter.
3. Remove and discard the seals.
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4. Lower vehicle.
5. Remove air cleaner assemble.
6. Remove the engine oil cooler line retaining rings from the engine oil cooler line quick connectors at the radiator engine oil cooler inlet and outlet. Follow the next two steps for the proper retaining ring removal procedure.
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7. Using a bent-tip screwdriver or equivalent, pull on one of the open ends of the retaining ring in order to rotate the retaining ring.
8. Rotate the retaining ring around the quick connector until the retaining ring is out of position and can be completely removed. Discard the retaining rings.
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9. Remove the engine oil cooler lines from the quick connectors at the radiator engine oil cooler inlet and outlet. Pull the lines straight out from the connectors.
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10. Remove engine oil cooler lines from the vehicle. Important: Have a drain pan ready for the engine oil to drain into.
11. Remove the bolt attaching the remote engine oil filter lines to the remote (frame mounted) engine oil filter adapter.
12. Hold the remote engine oil filter lines below the remote engine oil filter lines (engine mounted) adapter to drain the engine oil.
13. Remove and discard the seals.
*Image 6*
14. Remove the bolt attaching the remote engine oil filter lines to the remote engine oil filter lines (engine mounted) adapter.
15. Remove and discard the seals.
16. Clean all of the components in a suitable solvent, and dry them with compressed air.
17. Inspect the fittings, the connectors, the cooler lines, the cooler, the filter lines, and the remote filter adapter for damage, distortion, or restriction. Replace parts as necessary.
18. Flush the engine oil cooler, the engine oil cooler lines, the remote engine oil filter adapter, and the remote engine oil filter lines with the same type of engine oil normally circulating through the engine.

Installation Instructions
*Image 7*
1. Install new seals on both ends of each remote engine oil filter line.
*Image 8*
2. Install the bolt attaching the remote engine oil filter lines to the remote engine oil filter lines (engine mounted) adapter.
o Tighten the mounting bolt to 35 Nm (26 ft. lbs.) .
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3. Install the bolt attaching the remote engine oil filter lines to the remote (frame mounted) engine oil filter adapter.
o Tighten the mounting bolt to 35 Nm (26 ft. lbs.) .
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4. Install new seals to the engine oil cooler lines at the remote (frame mounted) engine oil filter adapter.
5. Install the bolt attaching the engine oil cooler lines to the remote (frame mounted) engine oil filter adapter.
o Tighten the bolt to 35 Nm (26 ft. lbs.) .
*Image 11*
Do not install the new retaining ring onto the connector by pushing the retaining ring down over the connector.
6. Install a new retaining ring (E-clip) into each quick connector at the radiator engine oil cooler inlet and outlet by following the next three steps.
*Image 12*
7. Hook one of the open ends of the retaining ring in one of the slots in the quick connector.
*Image 13*
8. Rotate the retaining ring around the connector until the retaining ring is positioned with all three ears through the three slots.
*Image 14*
9. Ensure the three retaining ring ears can be seen from the inside of the connector and

 

Image 6&8 are the same:
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Image 7:
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Image 11:
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Image 12:
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Image 13:
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Last but not least, Image 14:


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First, Thank you for the quick reply. Second, do you have to jack up the motor? There is no way the block that bolts to where the oil filter usually mounts will fit through the hole that the hoses are routed. That is unless I am missing something? Thirdly, how long have you lived in Seneca Falls, NY? I lived there when I was in middle school, 1982-1986.

 

I grew up in Varick, went to school in Romulus and am now working as a Process Engineer for Goulds in Auburn. Where are you located now?

About the lines, you have to remove the bolt as shown in Image 6&8 (first image in my second post) and then pull everything forward IIRC.

 

I have lived in Smyrna, DE for the last 7.5 years. I am self employed as a general contractor/handyman. The blazer is my wife's vehicle. It has been a bit of a disappointment at times. We purchased it used in 2001 with 38000. In Feb of 2002 we had to put in new trans as on of the planetary gear sets exploded. Then in June we had to have the front right wheel bearing replaced. Then the tie rods had to be replaced. Then in August of 2002 the pipe that transitions the top radiator hose to the intake manifold got a pin hole leak on the bottom side and peeed out all the coolant. Did not cook the motor (Thank God). Some time after that the heater core gave up the ghost. This past fall I had to install a new water pump. I have had to replace both idler pulleys. But it does have 154000, and it is paid for. I would like to run it a bit more. The lines have been leaking for 100,000 miles. Just not this bad. I have it up on ramps in my shop and changed the oil yesterday. I started it today after changing the fuel filter and noticed a big fast forming puddle of oil under the end of the plastic air dam. Again thank you for your quick reply.

 

Not a problem man. I'll add that the entire proceedure listed above came from AllDataDIY.com

Need anything else, just ask. If it doesn't pertain to this subject, just create a new post.

 

Thanks Swart for the post.
My oil filter lines are leaking also. Since I have the tranny out, I might as well fix them. Looks like a simple thing to do, and it alos looks like the leak is the seals, that seams simple enough and shouldn't cost too much to replace.

 

Typically, they leak at the solid to flex connections because of crappy crimps and flex line. On my grandfahters S-10 we had the ends cut off and new crimp connections brazed on and had 3000psi hydraulic hose crimped in. Only cost us the price of the hose and the new seals, but it was NEVER going to fail!

Good luck to the both of you!