Blazer trans fluid check
#1
please dont hate on me i thought i would ask a stupid question though. recently my trans fluid has been overfilled, so today i loosened the pan bolts and drained some out (i only drained like half qt maybe less) i have the owners manual since its below freezing here 10* i drove the blazer a couple miles in 3rd. i parked it back in my garage and let it idle about 10 minutes, then i went through every gear with a 3 second pause then back to park. i checked the fluid and it was at the cold mark even though the engine was fully warmed up. i kept adding little by little doing the gears in between. now it is just below the hot mark (below cross-hatched area) i didnt want to add anymore cause i just about put back what i took out. is there something im doing wrong? its shifting like it should no hesitation or slipping, should i just leave it be as it is?
#2
Transmission fluid takes considerably longer to heat up than engine coolant. With 10F ambient temperature, and a good radiator, it might take 30 or more miles of driving after the engine is at operating temperature, for the transmission to reach operating temperature. The factory trans cooler only holds about a cup of fluid and fluid capacity of the transmission is about 13 quarts, so it takes a while to heat up the fluid. Gotta check it in park, engine at idle, vehicle level, fluid at operating temp.
Last edited by Captain Hook; 01-22-2014 at 06:35 PM.
#3
if its on the stick, i wouldnt worry about it too much. but like the Cap't said, its takes a while for all that trans fluid to get hot. try checking it when you get home from work one day. assuming you have at least a 5-10 miles to commute, plus sitting in traffic, so on and so on.
#6
As long as it's in the cross-hatched part of the dipstick, (or between the dots) it'll be fine. If you drop the pan to change the fluid & filter, it will take about 4-5 quarts, but the entire system capacity is ~13 quarts, (torque converter holds almost 6 quarts). Most automatic transmissions built before the early 80's had a drain plug on the converter so you could drain it as well. On the newer ones, you either need to do a complete fluid exchange, change the fluid & filter more often, or change the whole transmission
#7
As long as it's in the cross-hatched part of the dipstick, (or between the dots) it'll be fine. If you drop the pan to change the fluid & filter, it will take about 4-5 quarts, but the entire system capacity is ~13 quarts, (torque converter holds almost 6 quarts). Most automatic transmissions built before the early 80's had a drain plug on the converter so you could drain it as well. On the newer ones, you either need to do a complete fluid exchange, change the fluid & filter more often, or change the whole transmission

#8
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 82

As long as it's in the cross-hatched part of the dipstick, (or between the dots) it'll be fine. If you drop the pan to change the fluid & filter, it will take about 4-5 quarts, but the entire system capacity is ~13 quarts, (torque converter holds almost 6 quarts). Most automatic transmissions built before the early 80's had a drain plug on the converter so you could drain it as well. On the newer ones, you either need to do a complete fluid exchange, change the fluid & filter more often, or change the whole transmission

My FSM for the 1995 Corvette for the similar 4L60E says to just replace the TC.
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