Brake Issue
#21
Pettyfog, I don't understand your last post. I have never had my booster off and have never checked/adjusted the pin extension. Please explain, I am confused. It seems to take longer before the brakes start dragging and the pedal seemed to go down just as far this morning at the first start.
#22
Look, it doesnt matter whether or not you ever changed the brake booster. Doesnt matter that there's no pin adjustment.
Your symptoms are the same as the guy in cool's link. He fought it forever until he ruined his booster, got a new one and it solved the problem.
And it is a classic misadjusted pin symptom!
only thing muddling the picture is ABS.
Your symptoms are the same as the guy in cool's link. He fought it forever until he ruined his booster, got a new one and it solved the problem.
And it is a classic misadjusted pin symptom!
only thing muddling the picture is ABS.
#23
The fact that whatever is causing the problem, is affecting both sides, and that pretty much guarantees the problem is something common to both sides, ie: master cylinder, ABS unit or power booster, not the calipers, not the flex lines, not the guide pins. Have you tried what I suggested in post #12?
#24
Not yet Captain Hook. The mechanic has it now. He is replacing the front rubber brake lines. I talked to Atlanta Speedometer and the guy there said that as long as the ABS fuse is pulled the ABS system is disabled and cannot be causing the problem. Hopefully this will solve the problem, if not I will proceed with you diagnosis tech and the ones in the article that Pettyfog posted. Thanks to everyone.
#25
I don't think your truck is the only thing getting hosed Very doubtful both hoses are acting up at the same time causing the problem.
Last edited by Captain Hook; 03-30-2012 at 04:41 PM.
#26
Okay, new hoses, still the brakes are dragging just the same. I disconnected the vacuum line to the booster and plugged it and drove the truck. brake pedal is rock hard, still the brakes are dragging. What is the next step? The brake pedal travel is very small. I thought I read that the pedal travel would be greater. What does the lastest circumstances indicate? Does it rule out the booster being bad?
Last edited by C210M; 03-30-2012 at 05:52 PM. Reason: More information
#27
When you pulled the vacuum hose off.... did you pull it off of the booster, or off the engine? Was there any type of fluid in the line or in the booster, (that you could see)?
Which wheels are dragging, fronts, rears, or all 4? (have to jack it up to find out.)
Which wheels are dragging, fronts, rears, or all 4? (have to jack it up to find out.)
Last edited by Captain Hook; 03-30-2012 at 06:28 PM.
#28
Off the booster, no fluid I could see, my mechanic said it is the front wheels dragging and that the rear wheels are turning free
#29
Is the rubber master cylinder cover gasket distorted in any way? If the hydraulic system has been contaminated with automatic trans fluid, any rubber parts, (lines, seals etc) in the hydraulic system could be distorted/restricted etc. There are two rubber flex lines, with a braided steel wrap, that run from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve which is attached to the ABS unit. They are within inches of the exhaust manifold, (that's why they're wraped) and might explain why it acts up when warm. The proportioning valve may also have rubber seals, (not certain on that though). Whatever it is, has to be something common to both fronts, basically anything from the master cylinder up to where the hydraulic system splits for each individual front wheel.
#30
Everything appears in order, no fluid in the vacuum line. The brakes still drag after the vacuum line is off the booster, does that rule out the booster? Could the fact that the ebcm tested bad have anything to do with the problem? Where do you buy the ebcm and how much? Thanks for your help.
Last edited by C210M; 03-31-2012 at 11:53 AM. Reason: correction