brake lines
#11
Was going to add you can bleed just like regualar brakes. However if you have air in the master cly you won't get the air out of the abs.
You will want to bench bleed the mc (can do in the car) The abs you really need to have a dealer use a Tech II.
What this does is while they bleed it (normally) they activate the abs, something you cannot do.
However if you want to do it yourself. Bleed the brakes drive it, hit the brakes hard to activate the abs, bleed them, repete, etc...
You will want to bench bleed the mc (can do in the car) The abs you really need to have a dealer use a Tech II.
What this does is while they bleed it (normally) they activate the abs, something you cannot do.
However if you want to do it yourself. Bleed the brakes drive it, hit the brakes hard to activate the abs, bleed them, repete, etc...
#12
Just did my brake job, and the 1/4 fitting on the end of the line doesnt fit into the female end above the rear axle. It is somewhere between 1/4 and 3/16. I'm thinking 5.5mm? I can't seem to find this fitting anywhere
#13
You'll need an adapter, most auto parts stores have them in stock, under $5. The male end, (metric) will fit into the junction and the 1/4" Inverted Flare, (new brake line) will fit into the female end of the adapter.
#14
it should just be u.s. standard thread 1/4 inch line. double check to make sure you didnt get a metric line that has happened to me a few times when ordering 3/16ths line at work, it looks identical to standard but is a hair bigger. should say on the little paper tag that came with the line
there so much stupid stuff that goes wrong, its possible the threads on the rubber line ripped up when you took the old line out. its possible that youre just not getting it lined up just right causing it not to go in.
everytime i do a car/truck at work i always have just a bare fitting to put into the rubber line to confirm the size before i mess with getting the line up there.
if you still have the old line break off the fitting that came out of there and see if that will thread in there, if so you can just cut your new line, remove fitting, install your old fitting then re-flare it if you have the re-flaring tool
there so much stupid stuff that goes wrong, its possible the threads on the rubber line ripped up when you took the old line out. its possible that youre just not getting it lined up just right causing it not to go in.
everytime i do a car/truck at work i always have just a bare fitting to put into the rubber line to confirm the size before i mess with getting the line up there.
if you still have the old line break off the fitting that came out of there and see if that will thread in there, if so you can just cut your new line, remove fitting, install your old fitting then re-flare it if you have the re-flaring tool
#15
Turns out the brake line that i bought from advance was 7/16"-20, and the female end of the center brake hose is 7/16"-24. Got the new adapter and i'm all set.
To think i was gonna get out of a brake job without learning how to flare....
To think i was gonna get out of a brake job without learning how to flare....
#16
These Worked For Me
I've done a few brake jobs and I stumbled across these guys online - they shipped my coil quickly and they had a pretty wide variety. https://4lifetimelines.com/ I ended up getting the copper nickel coil kit (LTCC325KIT) https://4lifetimelines.com/products/25-ft-3-16-in-copper-nickel-coil-tubing-kit-brake-fuel-or-transmission-line-fittings-included?_pos=1&_sid=fc5de853c&_ss=r . It was really easy to bend and flare too. Hope this helps!
Jaker
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bang4dabuck
1st Generation S-series (1983-1994) Tech
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02-28-2009 04:13 PM