stupid question but if 2 of the metal brake lines under the hood look like they have been crimped before would that cause my brakes to go down real far and barely have any stopping power? like ill be going 35 and have to push em almost to the floor to slow done enough to pull into a parking lot slightly faster than i would like to. my friends gonna help me fix em but i want to be able to know what i need to buy first. stupid question i know but im trying to learn.

 

If the pedal goes to the floor and no stopping power, means there's probably air in the lines and they need to be bled

 

ok so the 2 metal lines under the hood that are barely crimped arent the cause? my uncle told me thats why it doesnt stop good. but he acts like blazers and s10's are junk while he drives a 4.6 northstar cadillac lol.

 

What do you mean by barely crimped? Is it leaking?

Post a pic, along with what you're working on (year, make, model. Lots changed over the 20+ years these trucks were in production)

 

it looks like the previous owner put vice grips on them slightly to tight. i have no idea why they would do that tho. two little dents on the top and buttom of two of em. hasnt leaked any brake fluid in the 1 month i've had it so far and it feels dry were there crimped. ill go take a pic in the morning of it(have an old crappy android with no flash and theres no bulb under the hood. oh and shes a 01 4x4 2 door blazer.

 

and some extra info. the abs light is on (like every other s-series iv had but one) lol. and the parking brake light is always on and it doesnt click or stay down when i push it to the floor. will roll on a very small incline in neutral so i dont think its engaged tho.

 

Huh - sounds dangerous.

This needs to be addressed before any more rides in that Blazer.

As a preliminary action IMHO start checking from the outside in. Can all be done with engine "off".

That means:
- Jack the Blazer (safely!)
- Check wheels turn freely (not dragging a brake)
- Remove wheels
- Check brake calipers, pads thickness, wear, for leaks (01 should have all disc brakes around - right?)
- Check flexible brake hoses for cracked rubber, bends, leaks
- Check brake lines for rust, bends, leaks
- Check master brake cylinder for leaks
- Check reservoir for fluid level and leaks
- Check brake application (have someone step on the brake and check if wheels or disc can still be turned - observe brake pad movement, watch flexible rubber hoses.) (careful not to pinch fingers - watch only.)

If that is all satisfactory, the next step would be to bleed the brakes. A ton of information on the net.


All this advice assumes that you know your way's around vehicles and can perform all task safely. With brakes and suspected leaks when testing wear safety goggles and nitrile examination gloves. Brake fluid is aggressive.

 

For the ebrake pedal, you might need to change the pedal assembly on the inside under the dash. When I first got my blazer, it had the same problem. Cheap part from Amazon fixed it.

I qouldtrace your brake lines, make sure there is no leaks. Then a gravity bleed, might have to get a shop to do an abs bleed...

 

all tires turn freely and everything appears to be in good condition to the naked eye and my uncle lied to me theres not two crimped metal break lines just the short one that heads from the master cylinder to the other ones. it is crimped in two places tho so ill give him that. there is a slight amount of brake fluid residue right were it connects but the level hasnt went down noticeably in a month. the only time ive taken it on the road in the month ive had it was to bring it home about 7 miles and 1/4 mile to the convenience store once cause i was to lazy to walk there haha. i took a pic of the two crimps. just to figure out how to put them on here.