My previous lasted 3 months at 2 and 3 /32nds before the FL inner pad went to metal. Was braking hard sometimes. Other pads still had a little meat on em. Could that be due to sticky/seized caliper as mentioned on safety.

Replaced front rotors and pads.
Whats the break in cycle for "Top Quality" slotted and vhamfered ceramic disc brake pads.

Looking at old pads. Rf lots of meat left. Lf outter about half of rf. Lf inner to metal.

Im doing rear pads n rotors next. Anything special about drum parking brake? Or just the same routine.

Of note i didnt oil the bolts when installing is that crucial?

 

The pins and rails thatgo between the caliper and the bracket need to be cleaned and lubed.

 

Dammit i wasnt thinking straight, newbie mistake on my part.
I guess its easy enough to spin all 4 bolts out, oil them and re-tighten them, when I get the rig back up on the lift to do the rears. I never did torque them to spec, just cranked on them hard with the dual wrench trick for extra leverage. Live and learn I guess.

 

no oil, grease

 

Hmm gotcha grease.
I will talk to my local Auto Value guy, get the low-down.

Thanks

 

Easy way to diagnose is:
If inboard pads wear faster, the caliper piston is binding.
If outboard pads wear faster, the guide pins are binding.
If both pads wear faster on one side of the vehicle, the flex hose is restricted.


On the rear disc brakes: Each brake job should include the calipers, caliper brackets, pads, rotors, and hardware. Cost cutting measures are NOT recommended on these systems.

 

Interesting, I do have a leak on the hose on same side, thats what my safety said.
Very interesting the stuff I learn on here.

Thanks