2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech Discuss 2nd generation S-series (1995-2005) general tech topics here.

A/C Help

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 06-18-2012, 12:21 AM
TAS's Avatar
TAS
TAS is offline
Beginning Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 14
TAS is on a distinguished road
Default A/C Help

Hey guys,

I am a new owner to these cars, and so far loving it!
I have a problem with my A/C.

Even with the A/C option turned to cold, I still receive hot air? I've searched the forum, and this could relate to a leak from the compressor or one of the adapters or pipes.

I took the blazer to a garage where I work (Kazakhstan, Astana) and they said that I have a leak, and its either an adapter or a pipe.. they didnt say anything about the compressor. They dont speak English (only Russian) and I dont understand Russian, so its very difficult to understand exactly what part they are talking about.

What is annoying is that no one has this part in stock ANYWHERE in Kazakhstan, so I will have to order the correct adapter from the US, and then get the garage to fit it.

quick question to everyone, where is the A/C adapters and pipes located? I want to check if I can look to see if their is a leak, and I can detect what part will need replacing.

OR,

How many pipes and adapters are there in the A/C system? Would it be better to purchase all of these parts and then replace, and then test the system?

Im pretty convinced that the compressor is fine, because it kicks in, when you turn the A/C on, but it only brings in air from the outside (its never cold air!)

Cheers guys,
 
  #2  
Old 06-18-2012, 12:40 AM
50lb_cat's Avatar
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Iowa
Posts: 1,024
50lb_cat will become famous soon enough
Default

You could have a bad blend door actuator, its behind the glove box. Common for them to go out. If the compressor kicks on and stays on then the compressor is working. If the blend door is bad you will have no heat in the winter and no ac in the summer.
 
  #3  
Old 06-18-2012, 01:48 AM
TAS's Avatar
TAS
TAS is offline
Beginning Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 14
TAS is on a distinguished road
Default

Originally Posted by 50lb_cat
You could have a bad blend door actuator, its behind the glove box. Common for them to go out. If the compressor kicks on and stays on then the compressor is working. If the blend door is bad you will have no heat in the winter and no ac in the summer.
Hey 50lb_cat,

I dont think it could be a bad blend door actuator, as I get hot heat when I turn it on hot. Its just the cold air I am missing.

I have a leak, as the garage says I have.. Ive searched online, and are these the only parts I need to replace?

1999 Chevrolet Blazer A/C Hose - Auto Parts World
1999 Chevrolet Blazer A/C O-Ring - Auto Parts World
1999 Chevrolet Blazer A/C Receiver Drier - Auto Parts World

Are there any other parts within the A/C unit that may leak? I am ruling out the compressor, as you can defo hear it come on when you turn on the A/C FULL option... so I know its working. Im thinking its a leak from an adapter or pipe, but with no knowledge of blazer, and without a specialist in Astana, I am kinda stuck
 
  #4  
Old 06-18-2012, 05:01 AM
schollianmj's Avatar
New Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 95
schollianmj is on a distinguished road
Default

you need to find the leak otherwise your just gonna toss money at it. have the shop point at the part that is leaking, take a picture of it, post it here, and we will tell you what the eff it is. otherwise you co9uld look into getting a can of freon with the UV dye in it and find the leak yourself and tell us where it is.

AC is relatively simple. its just hoses and Orings.
 
  #5  
Old 06-18-2012, 09:58 AM
TAS's Avatar
TAS
TAS is offline
Beginning Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 14
TAS is on a distinguished road
Default

OK, so I have turned on the A/C on MAX and opening the bonnet of the car, and the A/C compressor spins and then stops, spins and then stops...
I took a vid of the engine running while the A/C compressor spins and stops.

Any ideas before I post up the vid?
 
  #6  
Old 06-18-2012, 10:29 AM
swartlkk's Avatar
Administrator
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Waterloo, NY
Posts: 41,137
swartlkk has a reputation beyond reputeswartlkk has a reputation beyond reputeswartlkk has a reputation beyond reputeswartlkk has a reputation beyond reputeswartlkk has a reputation beyond reputeswartlkk has a reputation beyond reputeswartlkk has a reputation beyond reputeswartlkk has a reputation beyond reputeswartlkk has a reputation beyond reputeswartlkk has a reputation beyond reputeswartlkk has a reputation beyond repute
Default

Short cycling such as you have described is indicative of a low charge. Since you already know you have a leak, the next course of action is finding the leak and making sure that there isn't more than one leak.
 
  #7  
Old 06-18-2012, 02:00 PM
schollianmj's Avatar
New Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 95
schollianmj is on a distinguished road
Default

Yep, your gonna need either the shop to tell / show you where the leak is, or use something like the UV dye to find it yourself. Once found, leaks are generally easy to fix by either replacing the hose / fitting / item or the Orings.
 
  #8  
Old 06-18-2012, 03:10 PM
Captain Hook's Avatar
Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Belleville, Michigan
Posts: 8,453
Captain Hook is a jewel in the roughCaptain Hook is a jewel in the roughCaptain Hook is a jewel in the rough
Default

Don't rule out the compressor so fast. The Harrison H6 compressor is famous for "belly leaks". There is an O ring where the case halves come together, and it usually leaks on the bottom of the compressor. If it hasn't leaked in the past, it's either leaking now, or it will, (they all leak eventually). As suggested, install an ounce or two of UV dye, run the system and look for the leak.
 
  #9  
Old 06-18-2012, 03:42 PM
10-78 edac's Avatar
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Chicago, IL.
Posts: 337
10-78 edac is on a distinguished road
Default

With the air cond. on, the receiver (the aluminum tank by the fire wall) should be cold to the touch (Like an ice cold beer) when the system is properly charged. The smaller line should be warmer then outside air temp. The compressor turns on and off with a pressure switch. If the blender door is blocking air flow to the evaporator, with a properly charged system, you could be cycling the compressor on low pressure. If the system is low on gas you can leak check with a dish soap solution that will bubble (like finding a leak in a tire). A small seal leak might need a little freon once a year and get you going. A major leak, the system would be out of freon and pressure switch would keep the compressor from running at all. Oil travels with freon, check for oil spots to find leak.
 
  #10  
Old 06-18-2012, 10:21 PM
TAS's Avatar
TAS
TAS is offline
Beginning Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 14
TAS is on a distinguished road
Default

Cheers for the responses guys, I really appreciate it.

Ive got the invoice back from the garage, and they have a recommendation on it regarding the A/C. The translation into English reads:

A/C pipe Connection for high pressure is leaking and requires changing.

What pipe is this, and where is it...?

I very much doubt I will be able to get the dye you are talking about, and having access to a UV light is highly unlikely.
 



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:32 PM.