I have a vacuum line coming from the vacuum pump, across the brake booster, going to the t-separator leading to the vacuum reservoir that seems to collapse when the engine is on. Vacuum pressure wants to suck the line closed. The rubber line is rigid when I pinch it top and bottom, but it closes when I pinch it from left and right. Is this intentional or do I have a bad rubber vacuum line? It also wants to slip off the vaccum pump, so I put a zip tie on it for now.

Also what other vacuum lines should I be checking for leaks?

There's the vacuum reservoir that's inside the fender. (Not sure how to inspect that.)
The 4x4 actuator.
Then there's 2 lines trailing off the back where the distributor is leading down under the chasis. I assume that's for the transfer case and transmission.

Also I need to ask about the AIR pump and EGR valve.
I looked around my 2002, 2-door, 4WD Blazer and couldn't find any of these two components. I guess mine isn't equipped with them?

 

If there's any question, just replace them. They're dirt cheap. And no, they should not collapse under vacuum.

BTW, what "vacuum pump" are you talking about?

 

What Tom said. For the stuff that’s hard to get to pinch off the line and watch the rpm and fuel trims first to see if you have to dig in.

As interested as you are in the workings of your truck you should consider getting on eBay and ordering a used set of OEM shop manuals.



George

 

I do have this manual I'm constantly referring to. I'll often come here looking for answer to things the book doesn't cover or I can't find on YouTube. The instructions on how to do X are for the most prat fairly cut and dry and easy to understand and do. Oftern I'll do X following the instructions, but I'll get a slightly different result then I have to go around and is this is normal.

Are there more sophisticated manuals out there? I took a look on ebay for wha you mentioned and I got a bit of a price shock on these OEM service manuals. Wasn't expecting a book, or 3 it lookes like, to be worth that much.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...nual&_osacat=0

I don't really have a lot of time to work on it physically, but I do make time to research the procedures and tools I need to acomplished something. I form a bunch of questions and what-ifs that I try to get answered, once I have it all on paper and I know exactly what to do then I'll commandeer my home garage and try to get it all done. Sometimes a weekend plan turns into one week like when I was replacing the heater core that started leaking. I was stuck working from home that week. Turns out my inside dash and HVAC box are configured slightly differently than all these other heater core replcement videos I watched.

I've resorted to DIY because these shop guys at chain outlets will often road test it and say there's nothing wrong. Then I'll drive it home after a tire balance or rotation and the whole truck feels like its about to fall apart. I took it to a family owned shop recently to deal with a noise it makes when the weight shifts turning right. Sounds like a clutch or bearing going bad. They claimed it was rear wheel bearings, replaced those, and the noise didn't go away. Held onto the Blazer for 3 days while they were backed up with other work orders whne they said they could get to it same day. Thankfully they didn't charge me, but they did misdiagnose the problem when I told them I don't think it is wheel bearings- it has to be the G80 differential, or something with the transmission, or perhaps the front differential. It noise is very particular- it only appears under certain torque/braking states. I was about to order this audio receiver kit on Amazon to diagnose the noise myself, but the $200 price turned me away from it and I took it to a shop for their $75 diagnoses thinking they'd have the same equipment already. I guess they didn't. It was just 2 dudes riding in the truck listening and said it's all in the rear and sounds like a wheel bearing. HOKAY....

I'm the second owner of this 4x4 Blazer. Bought it in 2016 when it had 98,000 miles on it, and it was mostly well kept. Paint is amazing aside from a few chips from the highway and the interior is mint condition. Other than oil changes, nothing else on it was properly serviced. Found out the OEM factory coolant had turned into an orange slushie when the water pump failed.
So I've basically been on a mission to restore this to almost-new condition replacing mechanical bits and pieces where I suspect something seems off or feels like it's worn out. The other half of this project is also preventive maintence because it sees about 400 miles per week on my work commute. I road like a dream when it was at 100,000 miles. Now at 180,000 miles, several aspects feel off, misaligned, or unblanaced, and it's been driving nuts trying to put these issues to rest. It's still totally drivable, but when something feels in need of repair I'm eager to fix it.

 

Isn't this solenoid looking part going to the PCV valve a "vacuum pump"? I read that's a thing in general but I have no idea these S10s have such a thing.

 

Those 3 blue shop manuals are what you want. I did not realize how expensive even used ones are, that's a lot of scratch.

The next best thing is an annual subscription to one of the repair manual services like alldata or Mitchel1 DIY. Around $35/yr/vehicle.


George

 

Nope, that's just a vacuum fitting on your intake manifold. Your engine creates vacuum when it's running, and all of your vacuum-operated systems work off of that. There are exceptions to this, but your Blazer isn't one of them.

 

In my signature I have a link for my write up on replacing the vacuum lines; sizes, diagrams, etc.