We finally got decent weather here in the Midwest and I decided to embark on the Fuel pump install. Oh, what an unfortunate sequence of events followed. Ended up adding New pump, new filler neck tube, new rear shocks, new rear stabilizer links, new rear shackles. Planned to install all new bushings, however I discovered a broken Passenger side leaf spring!

 

When it rains, it pours! I feel your pain!

 

This is why I hate looking under mine, too afraid of what I may find!

 

Let's start with the fuel pump, this is the entire reason why this job started. So I purchased a DFG0072 Delphi from my local parts store. It was a bit higher than rockauto, but I get lifetime warranty and fast exchange in the likelihood it would fail again. If you plan to do this and the tank has never been removed, I would plan to have the following along with the new pump. A new fuel pump retainer ring, new filler neck tubings, new hose clamps, electrical tape. Optional parts include, new tank, static ground strap, new upper & lower straps, new strap hardware, new clamshell (skid plate) hardware.


Delphi Pump

First jack the truck up from the diff with good jack stands under the chassis to hold the truck up in place. Also make sure to chuck the tires, take the jack away to give room to work. Remove the driver rear tire maybe best to allow access to filler hose clamps.

Then, I started by removing 7 clamp shell (skid plate) bolts. These are 16 mm I believe, but I can verify. You're going to need a swivel socket for one tucked behind the exhaust pipe. A 6-10in extension with shallow socket works for the remainder.

Follow removing the 3 screws that hold the filler neck pipe. You can access this thru the fuel fill door. 6 mm?

Filler neck

Under the rear truck above the rear chassis horizontal member, there will be a screw with the ground and a static discharge strap. This strap travels from the fillet tube to the chassis. If you don't remove it prior to lowering the tank you will snap it like did. 13mm?

ground screw

Ok, now for the hardest part of this job. Getting the freaken rubber hose dislodged from the filler neck to the tank. This was by far the most time-consuming part of the job. A big contributor to the problem is the lack of room to work, with barely one hand having access to the hose. It was so badly seized I had no other option but slice it open. This will ruin the hose and sourcing a replacement was the scary. I did manage to get a new set. Its two hoses a main filler hose and a filler vent hose. Both hoses are held together with clamp hoses. I used a 5/16 stubby nut driver to loosen them.


Now you're ready to drop the tank, but not so fast. With the tank supported with a jack of some kind, or do as I did and use a motorcycle jack with blocks. This will help assist in the lowering of the tank like mine that was filled to the top. Important use hose and siphon the fuel at least halfway to reduce the risk of spills. You can use fill hole for this. I covered the holes after with plastic bags and zip ties. Once you're confident, the fuel won't spill and the 4 18 mm bolts and nuts holding the straps are next. Use a 10in extension with a 6pt box wrench to remove while the jack supports the weight. Lower only enough to get your hand up and over the tank. You're looking to remove the main pump plug and the pressure switch plug. Also, the three fuel line connectors. All this can be done with a single hand, otherwise you will break the fuel line connectors and harness. Once every thing is detached you can lower the tank completely. Do not loosen or remove the upper strap bolts, there is no need to.


Tank

Fill hole

Clean the top of your tank and blow any debris from the surface of the tank. Using ring retainer pliers, remove the clip ring. Using an oil catch pan catch and pour any fuel in the pump reservoir. Pour fuel back into the tank if clean. Prep your new pump with fill float and seal. I used silicone lube to grease the seal as its a tight squeeze installing back. Use a new ring retainer if you have it to fasten the pump in plate and ensure its secure all around the tank.

Old Pump

Fuel lines

Now for some electrical prep, My Delphi pump connector did not match the oem connector. I had to slice the new one provided by the manufacture. A chart with color combination is provided to ensure proper hook up. I butt crimped and taped the slice. Probably best solder if you have the tools.


splice

Last thing, if you're missing or ripped the static strap you may have to make a new one. I had some ground strap and just crimped two lug terminals to it. Drill out the old rivet holding it to the filler neck and use a screw and nut to secure the new one. the other end will attach to the same location as before.

old rivet


New Strap

New lug

Now just put everything in reverse, Again the trick being the hose connection. I found slipping the hose onto the filler neck and securing the static strap with the ground to the chassis first worked well. Do not screw the filler neck just place it up into the body of the truck. lift the tank back into place (just enough to get your arm over the tank). Do the best you can to connect the filler hose to the tank before connecting the fuel lines and harness. Make sure the fuel lines and harness make the click sound to ensure proper connection. This is not easy but with some effort I was able to accomplish this in less time then removing it. You can lift all the way now and secure the hoses with the clamps and tighten the straps to the underbody. Screw the filler neck to the side of the truck and remove the jack.


I could not find the torque spec on any of the bolts maybe someone can chime in. Before installing the clamshell make sure you run the truck for a while and visually check for fuel leaks. A post install pressure fuel check probably will be good to have a baseline on the pressure your new pump is producing.

 

Can my last post be moved to its own post. In retrospect, I should have started a new post.