When you are testing the relay wiring are you just removing the relay from the socket and probing the socket holes or are you somehow removing the cover of the relay, exposing the relay innards?

George

 

I'm not messing with the guys. Just need access to the female terminals.

 

You don't remove the "cover" of the relay and you don't have to probe "the backside of the relay", you just remove the entire relay from its socket as one piece and probe the female terminals or holes in the socket for the relay and/or the fuses.

So with the HVAC blower selector in any position besides #4 (the highest fan speed), what is the voltage of the female socket hole for the HVAC relay pin 87, with the relay completely removed? If its not 12V, wiggle the socket and its wiring harness and the wiggle the 30A HVAC fuse in the U/H fuse block and see if the voltage comes to life in that socket hole.

George

 

13.3. I'm being forced to type 5 words.

 

Is the vehicle running while you are doing all of this testing or is the battery on a charger? 13.3V is high for a battery at rest.

So now with the fan selector in position #4 (high), what is the voltage in the socket hole for relay pin number 86?

I don't understand the comment about typing 5 words.

George

 

Running. 13.9. the site made me type 5 words to post.

 

so now with your meter on ohms/200 range, what is the resistance from the relay socket hole for relay pin 85 and battery ground?

 

0.1 ohms for socket 85.

 

Everything checks out so plug the relay back in and see if blower fan position #4 works. I not then wiggle the relay in the socket and see if the fan comes to life

 

Nothing. I'm guessing wire between relay and blower or connector at blower?