New ignition switch installed...same ol' problem.

Edit:
After cooling down I decided to remove my rant as it is not going to help anyone reading this.

I have a few general questions:

1). Is the ignition switch a plug n' play or do I have to relearn the passlock?
2). If I have spark at the plugs, can there be "too little"? Or if you have a spark, then you have a spark plain and simple?
3). Along the same lines, how do I know if I am getting enough fuel in the cylinders? I figure just because I have pressure at the fuel rail it may not mean I am actually getting the fuel into the cylinders. Although keeping in mind this is not starting with starter fluid either.

I decided to try something I read on here which is starter fluid with the MAF sensor disconnected. Ok...that didn't work either. It has to be a "spark" issue or the timing of the spark occuring. Should I check the timing and if so, what should it be?

Thanks again for everyone's time and help in this.

 

All of your symptoms pointed to a failing or faulty ignition switch. There is only so much that any of us can do over the internet.

You really cannot check the timing with the engine not running. You can ball park it.

You could try removing the distributor retaining bolt (under the distributor into the lower intake manifold) and turning the distributor to see if it helps.

 

No no...don't take me the wrong way...not blaming anyone because I would have replaced everything by now on my own! My "rant" was over the vehicle itself not the advice I've been given. I appreciate everyone's input in trying to figure this out.

I think I am going to try and jump it again tomorrow and see if I can get it running. It worked in the past (although didn't work the other day when I tried it). Just seems like something is out-of-sync. I am also going to pop off a plug or two and see if they are soaked with gas after failing to start.

Just weird how it runs fine for 2 weeks and then as soon as it sits for a couple days it won't run. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks again.

 

I feel your pain. Try something non-mechanical. Talk to, and pet her. It just might work.

 

Hmm...interesting. I've tried the kick/curse and that didn't work...maybe the "pet" is the key! Hell!...I'm willing to bring in a holistic healer at this point!

 

Update: Ok, tried to jump it again today. Even cranked the jeep up to around 1800 rpm (via electric hand throttle controller....awesome for off-roading with a manual tranny) during the "jumping". It was cranking over very strong and still no start. I even tried starter fluid once again and no luck.

I pulled one of the plugs after trying to jump it and it was soaked with gas....so atleast I know I am getting fuel to the spark plug and I know I have the right pressure at the rail up top.

One thing that happened today that hasn't happened before. When I get done cranking and it does its little "engine sputter" for a couple seconds, there was about 3 seconds of silence and then it "sputtered" again?!?! Interesting. Damn gremlins!! lol

My next plan of attack it to continue focusing on the "spark" side. I'm going to replace the dist. cap, rotor and plug wires (remember, spark plugs are brand new...and in case someone thinks about it, the gap was properly set based on Mfg's recommendations) as I figured if nothing else, it will help the selling cause by saying a tune-up was just completed. For the benefit of the forum, I will start with the plug wires, then the dist. cap and then finally the rotor just so if something does break through we will be able to pin point which one solved (keep fingers crossed!) the problem.

 

Try this before you tear into it too deeply. Remove the hold down bolt for the distributor and try rotating it in either direction. Then try starting it. Do not go crazy with the rotation, but maybe 30* in either direction in say 10* increments.

 

IT'S ALIVE!!!

Swartlkk was on the right track with the "spark" being the issue.

Ok, as I mentioned before I was going to go ahead and do the wires, cap & rotor. I was going to rotate the distributer next as Swartlkk mentioned if this didn't work. I first changed the wires and then the cap itself testing inbetween changes. The blazer acted no different....would just crank over and over and stumble after I let off.

So I went ahead and changed the rotor. I cranked the engine over the 1st time and it didn't start...my heart sunk. Cranked it again and it fired up!

I have shut it down and restarted it numerous times with no issue now. If you rev the engine up and then take the throttle to 0% it drops really low on the RPM's (around 400 rpm) like it is going to stall but it recovers. There is no check engine light and I am letting it run a bit as it probably has a bunch of fuel/starter fluid/etc. built up from the continuous cranking and no starting.

Hopefully this is it. Thanks everyone for their input esp. Swartlkk. It was very helpful and saved me a ton of time and $$. I am also going to put the fix on the first post so people don't have to read through the entire thing to see what solved it.

 

Good deal! Keep us posted in the long term!

 

Well....hopefully the long term won't be too long since I am going to be trying to sell it!

I do plan however to let the blazer sit for a couple days (starting today) as I detail the interior, put the dash back together after the ignition switch install and install a new driver's side mirror. I'll then try to start it after hopefully a few days of sitting to see if the problem returns.

Then I have to get the wonderful NY inspection done and then I'll try to let it sit for a while (hopefully about a week) before starting it again. I just want to make sure this solves the problem so I don't sell it and the buyer runs into the same problem a week later.

I'll post an update in a few days. Thanks again Swartlkk!

JT