LOL yeah actually!

 

I tried to find the fuse in the fuse box in my door jam and there was no DRL fuse. I have a 1998 so it was the first year with the stacked headlight design if that is any significance to anyone. Any help with this problem would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Dan

 

The DRL Relay is in your fusebox under the hood, not the door jam. If you open your hood it will be on the drivers side. Look in your owners manual and it will show all the locations of the fuses and relays.

 

Yeah I already pulled the fuse under the hood and that disables them while it is light out but how do I get the headlights to turn off at night while the truck is running? Pushing the dome override 4 times doesn't work for me.

 

i have a 98 blazer and fuse still in and still only have 1 bright light what do u suggest

 

There's a sensor on the rt side speaker grill for the automatic​ lights. If you unplug the sensor and wire a resistor into the terminals of the plug, it will make the computer believe it's always light out, and give you full control with the headlight switch.

It's a 2.2k ohm resistor for 99 and up. And If my memory serves me correctly- a 890 ohm resistor for 1998

 

I've seen tons of misinformation out there about these systems and how to disable them. So far this thread has had the most accurate info I've seen. I suspect most of the problem is that a lot of people fail to differentiate between the two systems, genuinely don't know that they are two different systems that work with each other, or they just use Daytime Running Lights to describe both systems and never get the answer they're looking for.

To correctly disable them so you have no Daytime Running Lights AND also have complete manual control over their headlights and parking/taillights,you have to perform two operations:

1) To disable the DRLs... First locate the Fuse/Relay box under the hood and twist the handscrew counterclockwise to open it. There will be several small rectangular relays in the box, all say OMRON, some are gray, one is black. The black one is for the DRLs. It will be just below the Fuel Pump Relay. Remove it, locate the #86 terminal and bend it out of the way at the base. Or alternatively you can remove the post completely and grind away what's left with a Dremel. Either way, make sure you have a spare relay on hand in the event that you wish to restore functionality. Plug the relay back in and secure the cover. (You can't just remove the relay and be done with it. It may appear to work at first, but the first time you go to use your hi-beams at night, the left one won't work anymore).

At this point, the low power/hi-beam DRLs should be disabled, so all exterior lights should now be OFF during the day, but the automatic On/Off at Dusk/Dawn will still be functional.

2) To disable this feature you need to bypass the ambient light sensor. With a stubby Phillips screwdriver, remove the speaker grille/cover on the passenger side speaker on top of the dashboard. Disconnect the plug from the sensor, but leave the sensor attached to the cover for asthetic purposes. Connect a 2.2kΩ resistor between the two terminals on the plug and wrap the resistor and connector with electrical tape to secure it and prevent it from contacting any ground or power sources. Replace the speaker grille/cover. Start the vehicle and check all exterior lighting. It should all be off because it's daytime (hopefully) and you have isolated the sensor from the rest of the system. Turn the headlights/taillights on with the switch to verify that all exterior lighting works.

If you only wish to disable the DRLs but still have the headlights turn on automatically, follow step 1 but omit step 2.

If you wish to disable the automatic headlights but still have the DRLs, omit step 1 and follow step 2.

If you follow both steps, your Blazer headlights and taillights will function the same way that exterior lighting systems have been working for several decades. No pressing down on the parking brake pedal one click, or cycling the Dome Override switch On/Off/On/Off ever again.

 

Good info.

I believe the 98 and before uses a different resistor at the speaker grate sensor. 99+ use the 2.2 ohm. Chevyriders mentions it above your comment, but I think forgot a decimal point...?

 

I've heard 890 ohm resistance is what the sensor puts out. But people seem to be using 1k ohm resistors and having good luck.

 

That's what I was thinking of, the 1k.

Thank you, I couldn't remember it for the life of me!