I have degree gauge i wasnt sure which way to go so i decided on 26ft lbs first pass 44ft lbs second pass 66ft lbs final. Ive done some research asked a couple mechanics i know said either way would work...

 

So you want to buy new TTY bolts and then treat them as if they were regular bolts? I'm quite certain that defeats their entire purpose. One thing is for certain..... using an angle gauge is much more difficult when the engine is still in the vehicle.

 

What would u recommend?? I want to do this right...

 

I too recommend that you degree the final pass/step with those head bolts (if at all possible). Performing a degree gauge 'dry' run (without turning the bolts) can be a good idea when engine bay room is tight. The good thing with degrees is that you know exactly how far you need to go regardless of the handle length of the breaker bar or ratchet being used.

 

If I remember correctly, the first pass is to a low torque value. Then the second and third passes are specific angles. Consult the factory manual to confirm this and for the values - mine is at home.

 

22ft lbs on all first pass... 11 3 2 6 and 10 additional 55 degrees... 12 and 13 additional 65 degrees... 1 4 8 5 and 9 additional 75 degrees is this correct....

 

So heres the end result.....little tricky to get power steering bracket off, tight squeeze to remove nuts from exhaust manifolds that connect to exhaust pipe.. Heads came off pretty easy.. Piston tops looked fairly decent no scoring or ridges on cylinders,no pitting on valves so i didnt lap them changed seals, kinda tricky with the degree gauge... Got it all back together, fired right up...... Thanks to all..