Distributor and codes?
#1
Distributor and codes?
So for the past ohh, 3 months I have gotten an off and on problem with acceleration. I usually drive like a grandma most of the time and in first and second and sometimes third I would get what I can only describe as a stutter. It starts around 1500 rpm and makes 100-200 rpm jumps up to ~3000 rpm.
First thing I did was run a fuel injector cleaner through the system, and that seemed to work for about a week.
Then I thought about what else could cause what felt kind of like a misfire, which was actually backed up when I ran the codes and came back with a few:
P0300, P0325, P0147 and C0235
I actually recently remembered something a mechanic told me the last time I got my car a tune up in December before I left Montana to come back to Alaska and, he said that one of the screw holes in the distributor was busted and that only one screw was holding the cap on. This made me wonder if moving to a drastically more humid and wet climate would cause the issues to show more than they ever did in dry ol' Montana?
So my question is, are the distributor, new wires and plugs the way to go for solving this issue?
Also, any ideas as to where to work on the other three codes?
First thing I did was run a fuel injector cleaner through the system, and that seemed to work for about a week.
Then I thought about what else could cause what felt kind of like a misfire, which was actually backed up when I ran the codes and came back with a few:
P0300, P0325, P0147 and C0235
I actually recently remembered something a mechanic told me the last time I got my car a tune up in December before I left Montana to come back to Alaska and, he said that one of the screw holes in the distributor was busted and that only one screw was holding the cap on. This made me wonder if moving to a drastically more humid and wet climate would cause the issues to show more than they ever did in dry ol' Montana?
So my question is, are the distributor, new wires and plugs the way to go for solving this issue?
Also, any ideas as to where to work on the other three codes?
#2
So for the past ohh, 3 months I have gotten an off and on problem with acceleration. I usually drive like a grandma most of the time and in first and second and sometimes third I would get what I can only describe as a stutter. It starts around 1500 rpm and makes 100-200 rpm jumps up to ~3000 rpm.
First thing I did was run a fuel injector cleaner through the system, and that seemed to work for about a week.
Then I thought about what else could cause what felt kind of like a misfire, which was actually backed up when I ran the codes and came back with a few:
P0300, P0325, P0147 and C0235
I actually recently remembered something a mechanic told me the last time I got my car a tune up in December before I left Montana to come back to Alaska and, he said that one of the screw holes in the distributor was busted and that only one screw was holding the cap on. This made me wonder if moving to a drastically more humid and wet climate would cause the issues to show more than they ever did in dry ol' Montana?
So my question is, are the distributor, new wires and plugs the way to go for solving this issue?
Also, any ideas as to where to work on the other three codes?
First thing I did was run a fuel injector cleaner through the system, and that seemed to work for about a week.
Then I thought about what else could cause what felt kind of like a misfire, which was actually backed up when I ran the codes and came back with a few:
P0300, P0325, P0147 and C0235
I actually recently remembered something a mechanic told me the last time I got my car a tune up in December before I left Montana to come back to Alaska and, he said that one of the screw holes in the distributor was busted and that only one screw was holding the cap on. This made me wonder if moving to a drastically more humid and wet climate would cause the issues to show more than they ever did in dry ol' Montana?
So my question is, are the distributor, new wires and plugs the way to go for solving this issue?
Also, any ideas as to where to work on the other three codes?
You have a random misfire .. that misfire might actually cause spark knock.. which would explain pending p0325 codes
https://blazerforum.com/forum/diagno...plained-29008/
P0235..!!!!! Are you sure? Indicates your turbo wastegate may be stuck?! If it occurs after you reset it once, replace the MAP sensor for damn sure.
P0147 Post cat heater circuit malF
https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...function-1839/
sez it all.. fix your driveability problems - P0300 - first then see what happens.
Last edited by pettyfog; 05-14-2012 at 01:08 PM.
#3
Yes.. and while ANY brand cap and rotor might fail, AC Delco are least likely to fail early. Worth the money. Stay away from caps with aluminum contacts. Do not use cheap wire sets.
You have a random misfire .. that misfire might actually cause spark knock.. which would explain pending p0325 codes
https://blazerforum.com/forum/diagno...plained-29008/
P0235..!!!!! Are you sure? Indicates your turbo wastegate may be stuck?! If it occurs after you reset it once, replace the MAP sensor for damn sure.
P0147 Post cat heater circuit malF
https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...function-1839/
sez it all.. fix your driveability problems - P0300 - first then see what happens.
You have a random misfire .. that misfire might actually cause spark knock.. which would explain pending p0325 codes
https://blazerforum.com/forum/diagno...plained-29008/
P0235..!!!!! Are you sure? Indicates your turbo wastegate may be stuck?! If it occurs after you reset it once, replace the MAP sensor for damn sure.
P0147 Post cat heater circuit malF
https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...function-1839/
sez it all.. fix your driveability problems - P0300 - first then see what happens.
I did get the AC Delco platinum plugs and a set of wires that were ~$67 but can not remember the brand off the top of my head at work.
Now the distributor that I got is an A1 Cardone, which from my understanding is actually an AC Delco re-manufactured one or is that wrong?
Anyways it didn't come with a cap or rotor, so should I go pick up new ones as well or could the cap and rotor that had been replaced in December still be okay, or is that just a bad idea to stick old stuff on new things like it usually is
Thanks for the help and sorry if these are stupid questions :P
Just trying to learn about my blazer the same way I know about computers haha.
Unfortunately the first thing I need to do after work is take a heat gun to the third brake light and get that unstuck so that I can reseal it with silicon and hopefully stop this gnarly leak that showed up when I moved back to AK and already killed one of my amps
Hopefully I can get to the distributor tonight haha
#4
Oops! Rear wheel ABS/4WD speed sensor. Which is the one on the rear propeller output that isnt VSS.
Dont know. Is it the new dist that's broken or why it's new? If it was new and cap ear broke, I would use nylon cable ties to hold cap on till the symptoms were fixed.
Just get cap with real brass cylinder posts
I did get the AC Delco platinum plugs and a set of wires that were ~$67 but can not remember the brand off the top of my head at work.
Now the distributor that I got is an A1 Cardone, which from my understanding is actually an AC Delco re-manufactured one or is that wrong?
Now the distributor that I got is an A1 Cardone, which from my understanding is actually an AC Delco re-manufactured one or is that wrong?
Anyways it didn't come with a cap or rotor, so should I go pick up new ones as well or could the cap and rotor that had been replaced in December still be okay, or is that just a bad idea to stick old stuff on new things like it usually is
Thanks for the help and sorry if these are stupid questions :P
Just trying to learn about my blazer the same way I know about computers haha.
...
Just trying to learn about my blazer the same way I know about computers haha.
...
#5
I'm not sure if the one that was giving me trouble is the original one or not, but seeing as my blazer has ~161k miles I figured I would change it out and see if it helped.
I also called up our NAPA and they do have the ones with real brass, so I will be picking those up today on the way home from work.
#6
#7
Do yourself a favor, stay away from aftermarket stuff, especially ignition parts, on this engine. After you replace the distributor, install an AC Delco cap & rotor. Put a dab of silicone dielectric grease on each terminal, inside and out, of the cap. They have aluminum alloy terminals last 100K miles, provided you use AC Delco plugs and a good set of wires.
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abadinalbany
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
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04-16-2011 11:31 AM