*please keep this separate thread*

*Hat is on securely*


Hello, everyone. Fighting with it to get it to not surge at lights. Seems to run good with MAF disconnected, will have to verify again.. It idles fine if in park or neutral, and drives smooty.


Next to check, maybe EGR? TPS?


Here is a video.


Noises in the video: The power steering is the Whirrrrr noise consistent with RPM, and the brake booster is still hissing loudly when depressed the brake pedal.






*UPDATE:*


OK so.. if I unplug the MAF, it wont want to stall AT ALL and just idles a little higher.


The higher idling (sounds eventually like "racing" the engine) means I'm waiting on a new part, do not want to risk it . Recreated the surge and stall about 5 times..


Also got a code P0108 after changing air filter, tightening down many things, and test driving. Perfect operation occured when it set Code P0102...


That is what I got for now. Decided to shut it down and wait for the part. Will update when it comes and how that turned out.


Old MAF cleaned about 5x more than the normal person would.. I believe we can call that MAF dead.

 

Vacuum leak... Sounds like you didn't solve all of the issues with unmetered air entering the engine. Tell me again why I shouldn't combine this with your other thread??? The whole point is to keep what has been done in the past in one place to limit the amount of recurring questions. You still have driveability concerns. They may have morphed, but that is part of the process. If you'd like, we can change the title of the thread to be more consistent with the main issue (driveability concerns)...?

And now you suspect you've killed your MAF sensor... I didn't see that coming at all either... I'm just going to stop and get . Just sick of getting ignored. Good luck with your parts shotgun. Hope your wallet can keep up!

 

Well, I suppose we can combine them.. The only part I actually bought today was a new air filter. Finding that stud/screw is proving to be difficult. I may know of ONE yard in the area that MAY have it but then if going to work gets in the way of their hours.


In the absence of the screw, I was able to get it more secured somewhat creatively.. This is why I moved on to the next thing, I also don't seem to hear one anymore.. This is why I thought it was a separate thing!


If it combines (I thought separate thing, separate from engine) Can we call it something like "Fixing the surge at idle in drive"? I have it parked until I find the screw, or new hat like the pics, or some other way to get the old pieces replaced if there is a vacuum leak in there, so that this engine doesn't get destroyed. P0108 after new air filter... so, you arent "ignored" I just thought I fixed that problem . Water and brake parts cleaner sprays, I can't get idle to change doing that!



^ I can see why folks and forum veterans would become frustrated if it is a glaringly obvious problem (from what I read: Vacuum leak) to all but the OP (me.) So.. it is not my intention to make anyone mad. Unable to (yet?) locate a proper screw, thus negating any positive effects a newer Hat with screw hole and orange seal and mounting bracket in tact would have...


My custom fabrication (different screw putting pressure on corner of hat) seems to be somehow leaning just enough of a vac leak so as to not be effective. Is how I got here...


Lead to how i THOUGHT it did, and my "A-ha!" discovery of being able to replicate good/perfect driveability - with a high idle but. Still. NO stalls - to surging only at stops.. my MAF discovery. Got me all excited. Sure.


So, if it eases things over, I can wait until I get the intake really secure and either locating a screw and new hat or, if I cannot find these, particularly in light of current events... if I get a whole. New. Intake. Setup. Just. For the Express and sole. Purpose. Of. Having a vacuum leak free and secure - with proper screws - mounting of hat, and a selection of new pieces to eliminate any possibility of vacuum leak in other duct work, some combination of stock and K&N or Spectre pieces.. Either or, the goal is a secure Hat to eliminate vacuum leaks, and it has been speculated that my problem will be solved at that point.. That is no problem to do so.


I hope that plan of action is okay.. I dont want to make anyone (swartlkk) any more mad then they already are! I did want to explain why I got all happy and thought I got it. Never quite had a vacuum leak issue before.

 

The vacuum leak we keep referring to is the one at the base of the throttle body, where the gasket is, because it's missing one of the bolts that is supposed to hold it tight to the manifold. Even if that stud isn't necessary to secure the hat, it still needs to be there to hold the throttle body.

 

Ontop of the missing bolt for the throttle body (the throttle body literally is not bolted fully down currently on your rig) the Hat needs to be replaced anyways as in your last few threads there was a picture showing it completely missing the steel connecting bracket. go to ANY crash yard with a 5700 or 4300 Vortec from between 95-05 as they all use the same intake setup, Silverados, S10 Trucks, 2 door and 4 door S10 Blazers, Vans, many many types of vehicles had these motors, the parts are not rare at all, you're just not looking in the right place, the vacuum is generated in the plenum/upper intake and that extends all the way up to the MAF sensor, a leak anywhere between the lower intake and the MAF is a vacuum leak.

To reiterate, The throttle body is straight up not bolted down on your rig, i dont see how you cannot see a vacuum leak there.

 

If the throttle body bolt isn't needed to hold the hat on (because you're using an aftermarket setup), then it's just a regular metric bolt. I don't know the size off the top of my head, but it shouldn't be hard to figure out.

Here's what the factory setup looks like:



And here's what the elbow should look like on the bottom. Note the metal clip that hooks under the lip on the front of the throttle body.




And because I mentioned it before, this is what the new style MAF sensor looks like.

 

Ahhhh.. okay. Now I see more what you mean. Please tell me if I am seeing things, but, is that bolt holding the hat down at a slight angle?

I should have taken some more pics of mine, but. Yes, that hat.. needs to be replaced.

I just may visit the yard I got the license plate bulb from to get a factory bolt. If they are that plentiful. That may be.. needed. No idea what happened to my original one but, hey. Maybe I ordered the aftermarket intake stuff for nothing. Maybe I will use the hat off it.. maybe the whole thing. No idea if those have the bracket or not, but. Not to sound stupid, but what I heard repeated is that there HAS to be the bolt back there whether it is a factory Hat or not, as that in and of itself is making a vacuum leak.. It may sound dumb, but I had to use a Linesman pliers on mine to tighten the bolt to get the black plastic piece on top to push against it. (Edit: Because the black plastic "handle" piece has become slightly separated. A mess.. I know.) I still need a new hat of some type, yes, but it occured to me that I did give it two small turns to position it better and now.. havoc. So, okay, slowly but surely, we seem to be getting there.

swartlkk sorry about all the literal things I'm not seeing, I apologize okay.

 

No, that's just the way the picture looks. It's straight.

EXACTLY!

 

I decided to visit my truck before work.

First thing I did was.. get this screw as secure as I can. This is what it looks like. It seems tight to the hat.. and it is putting force against it, and I am not able to move it in the front.



So. I cleared the codes (P0102 was there when I came to it) and plugged it in and started it up, and three things happened:

1. Truck raced up
2. Truck stalled
3. Code P0101 occurs now.

I tried fooling with it for about 5 minutes, and I noticed that the speedometer was indicating speed while the gear selector was in park and the truck was not moving. I could also hear the vacuum leak.. pardon me if this is elementary to you, but "from under and the back of the hat." Not sure it was coming from the bottom OF the hat (I will admit mine no longer has the orange rubber nor bracket) but.. Ever since tightening the screws at the duct work,
hat to duct
Duct to back of MAF
MAF to air intake rectangle that says VORTEC
All 4 screws that say VORTEC
.. All this new stuff, (P0108 one time, heard two backfires, all sorts of rough idle) happened after I did all this. And spray cleaned MAF

So. Posting before I go in to work, apologies if this is on the stupid side to the forum veterans, but I'm trying to NOT screw this one up.

Thank you.

 

Code P0101, with it connected .

I did turn it off so as not to cause more damage.

Got it to backfire a couple times before I did...