Yes, both terminals, without removing the fuse from its socket.

 

Sorry: check the fuses for complete circuit (ohms) or volts?

 

Make sure all of the fuses are good: Check both terminals on each fuse, without removing the fuse from its socket, with a test light or volt meter. Must show battery voltage on both terminals with the ignition in the RUN position.

 

Ok, I'm feeling a little "thick" at this point. Sorry to keep needing clarification. Am I putting the pos lead from volt meter on one terminal of the fuse, and the neg volt meter lead to ground? Or, one volt meter lead on each side of the fuse itself?

 

Volt meter ground probe to battery negative, then touch the volt meter positive probe to each terminal on the top of each fuse.

 

Captain Hook, thank you for walking me thru that. All the fuses had current except the "Crank" fuse and one for "instr .....". Couldn't read the rest of the name.

I had a fuel pump that I changed out awhile back, that wasn't the problem at that time. So earlier this week I changed the fuel filter, then today changed the fuel pump to that older one. Guess what?? The cel went off and the car ran somewhat smoother...it is at least driveable again. Before changing it I had codes 22 and 34. Now I only have the 34 code. When I noticed the lite was out I went and checked for the 5v at the sensors. I now have 5v at the TPS, but not at the MAP sensor. I don't get it, don't see how they affect one another (fuel pump and TPS). Drove the car for the first time in a week. It still sputters and backfires but at least it keeps going down the street.

It was the way Captain Hook said TPS and MAP will "make it run poorly", or words to that effect. Made me think that there must be something else going on, since the car was undriveable. So .....I'm thinking the MAP may be shorted?? So unless some wise soul has another idea for me to check, I plan to buy a MAP sensor tomorrow. Funny cause I thought the MAP checked out as "good", because I sucked on the hose and the meter needle went down. Thanks to everyone who helped.

PS:
Don't know how much this matters but I do have a significant exhaust leak before the muffler.

 

Yep, you're right. It did the same thing again on the road. Sounds like the ecm is working sometimes and not at other times.....the 5v thingy. Any other ideas out there?

 

I got a next used ecm, but the problem of choking, sputtering, bogging down when I press excelerator, is still there. It doesn't do it all the time but the more I drive it the worse it gets. For awhile I got only the TPS low voltage code. When it starts acting up I get both codes TPS and MAP low voltage......to reiterate, when it runs ok, there is 5v going to the TPS, not MAP. Tested the wire back to the ecm and it is good. Tried to take off the TPS and broke one screw, going to try to take the other screw out today and replace the TPS with one from a friend's car. Think I need to test if the ecm is putting out the 5v. Will post back.

I watched the injectors as it idled up and down on it's own. When it is running bad it has a lot of fuel from the injectors. For some reason it's getting too much fuel to idle correctly. Welcome any thoughts/ideas. Thanks.

 

I disconnected the TPS and MAP, car ran bad, same symptoms. Disconnected IAC, car idled high, similar rough running. Reconnected IAC and TPS, car ran slightly better....I was able to hit the gas pedal without bog down. Reconnected MAP and car wouldn't idle, ran worse. Disconnected MAP again and it idled better and I could hit the gas. Tried to drive it and it began sputtering and choking.

I'm getting 3v on MAP and TPS. When I test the control wire on TPS, meter starts at (what looks like) less than or about 1v. When I move the throttle meter goes up to 3v. I'm just very broke at the moment or would have just bought MAP and TPS by now. May try to buy parts Saturday.

Would the Fuel Press. Reg. cause this? Can it be tested without a pressure gauge? Any other ideas out there?

 

Here's something to try:
Disconnect the MAP sensor.
Check voltage at the TPS signal return wire, (the one that you got 1 volt then up to 3 volts).
Key ON, engine OFF: with the throttle closed, it should be less than 1 volt. As you slowly open the throttle, voltage should increase smoothly and be very close to 5 volts at wide open throttle. Post your results.