Awful hard to hear even with headphones on... Sounded like it could be piston slap almost. One way to tell is to run a thinner oil and see if the noise gets worse. If it does, then the rods are most likely the cause. If it doesn't, then it may be piston slap.

 

ill record another video, if you still cant hear it, what oil W do you recommend for this experiment?
whats worse? piston slap? or rods? and if so grannying it what would be its life expectancy?

and then again if you cant hear it even with the high def mic i had hooked up then that might be a good sign =)

try running the video in 720p maybe better sound

 

If you are currently running 10w40, I would drop to 5w30 for the experiment. Just get the cheapest stuff you can find.

As far as what's worse... Rods are worse by far, in my opinion. Sooner or later, piston slap will catch up to you in terms of wear on the piston skirts & cylinder walls, but rods would get worse much sooner. Rod bearing wear is a slippery slope.

And there is no concrete way to determine life expectancy. There are just too many variables.

 

what would be cheaper if the engine goes? rebuild or engine swap?
and if i get cheap 5w30 what would the cause be if the knock is worse?

 

That engine sounds "fine" for 225K miles. Don't run thinner oil. You will hear more of the knock sounds at start-up with thinner oil. Especially when it is cold outside. Multi-viscosity oil starts out thinner, then gets thicker as the engine gets hot.

Using 15W40 would be a very good choice. 20W50 in Summer if you live in a very hot area.

Doesn't matter if you switch back and forth between synthetic and conventional oil. They blend the stuff together. Synthetic can handle extreme high temps a bit better. Usually longer change intervals w/synthetic. But at 225K you're probably getting dirtier oil quicker. So just buy name brand oil on sale by the case and change the oil sooner with a very good oil filter. An extra $2 for a better filter won't break the bank.

"High Mileager" oil is supposed to be better. Jury still out.

Oh, and put some "white lube" or something similar on those door hinges before the door falls off!!!

 

1 thing i forgot to mention. when i got this truck i did the oil change myself, and when i pulled the plug i swear clumps of oil were coming out, like it was sludgy as hell and black, i threw castrol high milage 10w40 in it. anytime i changed my sonomas oil the shop would tell me it was clean as a whistle being i dont go over 2k on a oil change, but this one smelt burnt and looked burnt

 

On your first oil change, did those clumps look like they had copper in them? If so, then it likely is a bottom end issue (rods/mains) that someone was trying to cover up with one of those "miracles" in a bottle.

My recommendation for 5w30 was just to diagnose the problem, not for long term use so just buy the cheapest oil you can find, drain the pan, fill it back up, and run it for a day, then do a proper oil change.

As far as which is cheaper, it depends on what needs to be done. A used engine will be the cheapest of any other option most likely. The difference between a crate engine and rebuilding yours depends on what needs to be done to your engine to get it back in spec. If you end up boring out the block, that can get expensive quick.

 

Buy some cheap oil and change the oil a few times. Drive for an hour between changes.

This can open up a huge can o worms..... I had a used engine with really bad lifter clacking and very dirty oil. It was popping out the carburetor; a stuck lifter was THAT bad.

**** INSERT WARNING HERE - FOLLOW AT YOUR OWN RISK *****

With no other recourse except to open up the engine ...... I poured 2 quarts of kerosene into the crankcase. (I removed 2 qts of oil first). Drove it for 30 minutes in residential area. Lots of stopping and starting. Low RPMs and cruising higher RPMs. I didn't beat on it nor did I baby it.

Changed the oil and filter. Drove around again. Changed oil again. Whatever was stuck in the lifter(s) was disolved. Engine ran strong for 11 more years until car was sold.

Tranny fluid can do the same thing, dissolve sludge in the crankcase. Kero is faster doing it. Tranny fluid works gradually and takes days or weeks.

But you can also dislodge so much sludge that it takes many oil/filter changes with kero to get it all out.

I did this as a last ditch effort and it worked for me. Who knows if it would work for you.

 

you know what i bought the truck on may 10th and i actually still have the used oil in my grams back yard in a pan. ill go check for copper but is it going to look like copper? all i saw were black glumps of oil.

and walkofgod should i just throw some seafoam in the crank case and brake booster hose? instead of buying strait kerosene?

 

You've got a Private Message Dopey.