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Engine Knock on startup- Scary

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  #41  
Old 06-09-2011, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by tornado_735
You've got a Private Message Dopey.
i c shall check now
 
  #42  
Old 06-09-2011, 03:27 PM
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In my honest humble opinion, I wouldnt do the kero trick and drive the truck. He said the vehicle lasted another 11 years. In other words, It was an older vehicle that was built with looser tolerances. Motor technology has changed ALOT in the past decade. Some of the old-timer tricks still work. Many dont. No way would i run my truck down the road with the wrong lube in the crankcase!

Like I said before, I wouldnt dump snake oil into the engine through the vacuum booster hose. The problems you are having are not from the engine being dirty.
 
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Old 06-09-2011, 03:57 PM
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The only thing I heard in that video was tappet noise. With 200K plus on the engine that's not surprising. I'd buy a set of valve cover gaskets, refer to a repair manual and adjust your tappet clearance.
 
  #44  
Old 06-09-2011, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by kristoph30
In my honest humble opinion, I wouldnt do the kero trick and drive the truck. He said the vehicle lasted another 11 years. In other words, It was an older vehicle that was built with looser tolerances. Motor technology has changed ALOT in the past decade. Some of the old-timer tricks still work. Many dont. No way would i run my truck down the road with the wrong lube in the crankcase!

Like I said before, I wouldnt dump snake oil into the engine through the vacuum booster hose. The problems you are having are not from the engine being dirty.
ok well i guess seafoam is out of my futur then, getin paid tommarow guna test the 5w30 see if it knocks any louder, then switch it to rottela 15w40 as a couple members said

Originally Posted by WalkGood
Oh, and put some "white lube" or something similar on those door hinges before the door falls off!!!
well the hinge needs a new rubber thinngy i can lifr the door about 1/2 inch and also were the door logs to needs to be welded as it is cracking on the inside, so on the free way i get to hear nice air coming in. then again thank god i got good speakers. =) new video coming can def hear the knock but its actually not as loud as it sounds on the video. and goes away after 6 secs

well there was still cars goin by so i found a open spot to start shootin the vid while they were at the light and here it is...

YouTube - ‪2011 06 09 23 40 22 656‬‏
 

Last edited by swartlkk; 06-10-2011 at 07:15 AM. Reason: *Combining Consecutive Posts* - Please use the EDIT feature to add additional information to your post if another member yet to respond.
  #45  
Old 06-10-2011, 07:40 AM
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I could hear it right off the initial start, but I still could not tell if it was piston slap or rod knock. You could try finding videos on Youtube searching for "piston slap" and "rod knock" to see what the difference is...

As far as your headlights go... I know I have covered this exact problem before, but can't remember what causes it off the top of my head. Is it just the low beams that are affected?
 
  #46  
Old 06-10-2011, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by swartlkk
I could hear it right off the initial start, but I still could not tell if it was piston slap or rod knock. You could try finding videos on Youtube searching for "piston slap" and "rod knock" to see what the difference is...

As far as your headlights go... I know I have covered this exact problem before, but can't remember what causes it off the top of my head. Is it just the low beams that are affected?
nope it affects both low and high beams only on passenger side but blinders fine, i switched the relay with the a/c relay and same thing.
 
  #47  
Old 06-10-2011, 07:52 AM
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Here's a thread I found searching for "driver+headlight+power":
Driver Side Headlight Problems!!! Please Help.

Please put your vehicle information in your signature in your 'User CP' / 'edit signature' and check the option to always attach your signature to your posts next time you post so we know what it is you are driving! Or, create a garage for your truck with all of the details inside (this will show up under your username in all of your posts).
 
  #48  
Old 06-10-2011, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by swartlkk
Here's a thread I found searching for "driver+headlight+power":
Driver Side Headlight Problems!!! Please Help.

Please put your vehicle information in your signature in your 'User CP' / 'edit signature' and check the option to always attach your signature to your posts next time you post so we know what it is you are driving! Or, create a garage for your truck with all of the details inside (this will show up under your username in all of your posts).
shall do, thanks alot!!

and there is no power at all that guy has power but little. started after i hit a bump comin home from work, i thought i killed the bulb but in fact lost all power to the hi and low on driver side.
 

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  #49  
Old 06-10-2011, 09:27 AM
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Admittedly, it is near impossible to diagnose an engine noise via the Internet, but I really don't think what you are hearing is coming from the bottom end of the engine. Bearing noise has an inherent 'heavy' or 'hard' knocking sound. The noise in your video is a lighter 'metallic' tapping sound which is indicative of excessive clearance in the valve train. It's definitely not piston slap. Piston slap would not disappear seconds after starting the engine - or at least in 30+ years of diagnosing and rebuilding engines I have never heard piston slap disappear within seconds of initial startup. There would need to be a significant change in temperature before the noise would disappear. IMO you have excessive clearance in the valve train, or possibly a tappet that is dirty/sticking or bleeding down. Instead of spending your money on oil changes I'd buy some valve cover gaskets and adjust your tappets as I previously suggested - but that's just my opinion. Better yet, why not take it to a local reputable shop and let them listen to it? Don't tell them what you think it might be - rod noise, piston slap, tappet noise, etc - just tell them you have a 'funny' noise and wonder what it may be. That way you can get their unbiased professional opinion. Good luck, you could be chasing your tail on this one for quite some time...
 
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Old 06-10-2011, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by 01BlackBeauty
Admittedly, it is near impossible to diagnose an engine noise via the Internet, but I really don't think what you are hearing is coming from the bottom end of the engine. Bearing noise has an inherent 'heavy' or 'hard' knocking sound. The noise in your video is a lighter 'metallic' tapping sound which is indicative of excessive clearance in the valve train. It's definitely not piston slap. Piston slap would not disappear seconds after starting the engine - or at least in 30+ years of diagnosing and rebuilding engines I have never heard piston slap disappear within seconds of initial startup. There would need to be a significant change in temperature before the noise would disappear. IMO you have excessive clearance in the valve train, or possibly a tappet that is dirty/sticking or bleeding down. Instead of spending your money on oil changes I'd buy some valve cover gaskets and adjust your tappets as I previously suggested - but that's just my opinion. Better yet, why not take it to a local reputable shop and let them listen to it? Don't tell them what you think it might be - rod noise, piston slap, tappet noise, etc - just tell them you have a 'funny' noise and wonder what it may be. That way you can get their unbiased professional opinion. Good luck, you could be chasing your tail on this one for quite some time...
yes it is a lighter knocking. i would take it to a shop but i would have to leave it there overnight which i cant afford to do. and what is a tappet? how do you adjust it? and my valve cover seems fine, but shall see how much it would be. if its sticky or dirty "tappets" how would i go about cleaning them?

and also if it is tappets what kind of damage can it do to the engine over the long run?
 


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