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Engine missing after new distributor cap & rotor

Old May 7, 2018 | 11:58 AM
  #31  
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It pained me not to remove the engine drain plugs when I flushed the dex mud out of my system. They are so famous for breaking and leaking that I decided not to touch them. 4 years later my coolant is still clean.
 
Old May 7, 2018 | 12:46 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Rusty Nuts
It pained me not to remove the engine drain plugs when I flushed the dex mud out of my system. They are so famous for breaking and leaking that I decided not to touch them. 4 years later my coolant is still clean.
This is what I plan on doing - flushing out all the buildup in my cooling system... should I do this before or after putting my new parts in? I'm replacing the water pump, radiator & hoses, heater core & hoses.
 
Old May 7, 2018 | 01:17 PM
  #33  
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I'd flush and clean first to not rinse crud through new parts. Sounds foolish to clean parts to throw them out but their last job would be clean the engine.
 
Old May 7, 2018 | 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by WangDangler
I'm going to start a new thread as I replace LIM gaskets, radiator&hoses, heater core, oil cooler lines, fuel injector assembly, and some smaller maintenance stuff like the thermostat, fuel filter, rear defrost, door hinge pins, etc. If I have the original water pump with 150k on it, should I replace that as preventative maintenance? A mechanic friend suggested that may be a good idea even though it isn't currently leaking at all
LOL. I am on these things - believe me, there are so many details You could even start own blog
The feel of engine bay looking better and better each day is invaluable.
P.S. Don't forget the vacuum too.
 
Old May 7, 2018 | 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike.308
P.S. Don't forget the vacuum too.
Vacuum?
 
Old May 7, 2018 | 04:02 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by WangDangler
Vacuum?
Vacuum control lines I meant. They are driven from a black plenum above the LIM. If any of them breaks You may loose control of this and that, but worst of all You'll get an extra air into the air intake... They are prone to time wear, but aren't hard to replace. You got one line coming from top to a brake booster and another nipple nearby, that goes to a splitters for actuator underneath a battery shelf, vacuum accumulator under the fender and the air flow actuators for AC.
 
Old May 14, 2018 | 11:51 AM
  #37  
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RE: Q? on radiator replacement. What is the best radiator and where did you buy it? How much did it cost?
 
Old May 14, 2018 | 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by jimspahr@msn.com
RE: Q? on radiator replacement. What is the best radiator and where did you buy it? How much did it cost?
The best radiator is an OEM radiator! Not eager to drop 150 bucks, I went to my local auto salvage yard and got a very clean OEM radiator in great condition for 50 bucks. The one I have now is loaded with crusted-up Dex-cool sludge, so this one will be a huge upgrade.

The problem with aftermarket radiators is that many of them use different fittings, which seems to always cause leakage. I dealt with this problem in my Malibu twice before splurging on an OEM replacement.

An OEM radiator shouldn't be hard to find at a salvage yard - almost anything on the S10 4.3L V6 platform in a similar year will fit. Just make sure it's in good condition - and clean on the inside!
 
Old May 15, 2018 | 05:59 AM
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Thanks, W.D.! But for those who don't have access to a salvage yard or don't trust used parts, what new radiator would you buy?
 
Old May 15, 2018 | 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by jimspahr@msn.com
Thanks, W.D.! But for those who don't have access to a salvage yard or don't trust used parts, what new radiator would you buy?
Rockauto.com
 

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