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Engine Replacement-gasket changes

Old Jan 1, 2016 | 01:36 PM
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Default Engine Replacement-gasket changes

I am replacing my engine (blown) with a used one noticed there a few oil leaks. Since the engine will be out I am planning on changing the oil pan gasket, oil lines, and valve cover gaskets. Is it that much of a pain to replace the timing cover gaskets or is this a know leak spot. I am just trying to change as much as possible while I have the engine out. Thanks. Is there any other things that you would suggest be done? The engine I am getting has 90,000 miles on it.
 
Old Jan 1, 2016 | 04:16 PM
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Timing cover is not a known leak area, but, as long as you're there, replace the timing cover and gasket. Intake gaskets are much easier with the engine out too, (Felpro MS98002T only). Oil lines: check out the forum for alternatives. The OEM style lines are all junk, and they all leak. Install poly motor mounts. WAAAAY easier to be proactive now, then have to replace them after the engine is in.
 
Old Jan 1, 2016 | 05:54 PM
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I appreciate the help. I think it might just be the oil pan leaking at the front. Guess I was lucky to see the engine run before he pulled it, I wont drop a nut down the intake again lol
 
Old Jan 2, 2016 | 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Captain Hook
Timing cover is not a known leak area, but, as long as you're there, replace the timing cover and gasket. Intake gaskets are much easier with the engine out too, (Felpro MS98002T only). Oil lines: check out the forum for alternatives. The OEM style lines are all junk, and they all leak. Install poly motor mounts. WAAAAY easier to be proactive now, then have to replace them after the engine is in.
Can you torque the oil pan before it is attached to the transmission? I have read where you have to wait until the 2 are mated together
 
Old Jan 3, 2016 | 07:35 AM
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Check the motor you're getting for any sign of coolant in the oil - past or present. If ok - DEFINITELY change the intake manifold gaskets with quality aftermarket (NOT GM!!!) gaskets.
 
Old Jan 5, 2016 | 08:31 AM
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I would do, oil pan, intake gaskets, timing cover, valve cover gaskets and rear main seal. I also replaced my oil pump, oil pick up and oil pump shaft while my pan was off. There is no easier time to do it. I recommend a Melling IS-55E oil pump shaft. It uses a steel collar instead of a plastic one. The plastic ones are known to fail.
 
Old Jan 7, 2016 | 12:44 AM
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The oil and coolant are good thank god. I did the intake gaskets on the bad motor before so wouldnt be a problem to do again. The new engine is coming from a 2wd Jimmy so I have a few parts that I need to swap over still. I have been debating whether to do the oil pump and will probably end u doing it. I do know the oil pan is leaking and thats about it, motor looks pretty good and runs great. I will be nice to finally get rid of the tapping motor, too bad I caused it.
 
Old Jan 7, 2016 | 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Impact
The oil and coolant are good thank god. I did the intake gaskets on the bad motor before so wouldnt be a problem to do again. The new engine is coming from a 2wd Jimmy so I have a few parts that I need to swap over still. I have been debating whether to do the oil pump and will probably end u doing it. I do know the oil pan is leaking and thats about it, motor looks pretty good and runs great. I will be nice to finally get rid of the tapping motor, too bad I caused it.
Don't forget to change your radiator (oil cooler) and clean out cooler lines/oil filter adapter. If bearings went out in old engine, metal can definitely hide there.
 
Old Jan 7, 2016 | 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Impact
Can you torque the oil pan before it is attached to the transmission? I have read where you have to wait until the 2 are mated together
Yes, but you need to check alignment of the pan with engine using a straight edge.
 
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