'96 4.3L 198k miles with the spider injection isn't starting up every time the same. Also, there are variances on how to get her up and going. Sometimes, she fires up on the first lick no problem and idles smooth. Others, it takes five or six attempts to get her started without any rough idling. There's also been many times that even spraying ether won't get her to catch on. These are the following parts that I've replaced to date, I know some might not be relevant but it might help.

• Battery and Terminal Bolts
• Thermostat (wasn't one installed when car was purchased)
• Manifold Gaskets and O-Rings
• Vacuum Lines
• Distributor, plus Cap and Rotor
• Spark Plugs and Ignition Wires
• Air Filter
• Mass Air Flow Sensor
• Throttle Positioning Sensor
• Fuel Pump Relay
• Fuel Pressure Regulator
• PCV Valve

I've also purchased a new fuel filter, but when my father installed it, there was some leakage so he put back on the existing filter for the time being. All the injectors are flowing and the fuel pressure was on point when tested. If the car sits for about two days without being started, the battery is too drained to start her up, which is odd because the previous battery was about 2 years old. I knew the previous owner personally, and she didn't know squat about cars, including regular maintenance, yet she still drove it daily without qualms. She only sold the car because she was bought a new vehicle.

My father thinks that the fuel pump is draining the battery, but there is no whining or problematic noise coming from the gas tank area, and ALSO, wouldn't that be a fuse or wiring situation instead? The only codes that came up when plugged in were for the MAF, TPS, and a cyl 4 misfire. Since clearing the codes, nothing new has surfaced.

The ECM has been tested and I have scoured the Hayne's manual to try to figure this out. Minus there being a short somewhere in the wiring, I'm at a standstill. I'd love to figure this out before putting anymore money into her to get her road ready. Any input would be greatly appreciated!!

 

Engine requires fuel, spark and air to run. If the battery is getting drained there is something causing this and needs to be corrected as this would impact the spark voltage.

To check the fuel pump, I believe there is an orange wire above the driver's side fender that is the fuel pump test lead. Measure the voltage on this with the key OFF. If voltage present, then father is right.

If not, then time to get an amp meter and find the source of the drain. Need to get an amp meter and find the source of the drain. Do you know now to use an amp meter?

 

Why does your dad suspect the fuel pump? You definately need to find that parasitic drain first though. Have the battery checked first though. Once it has been verified and found to be fine, you can start testing the various circuits.

 

Could also be a faulty altenator have it tested for free at any of the major auto part chain stores.

 

Humor me on this one What brand of distributor cap, rotor and plugs did you install? Did you put a dab of silicone dielectric grease on each terminal of the cap?

If adding ether, which you should NEVER do, doesn't help it start, it's most likely an ignition problem.

BTW, lose the Haynes manual, it's worthless on this vehicle.