Hi folks.

I have a 2004 S10 Blazer 2 dr, 6 cylinder (not extreme) 4x4.

I started to have a little grinding noise when I first started up, open the hood and it seemed to be coming from the a/c unit (belt driven compressor). It got noisier as time went on (about a week) but went away once you were in drive and accelerated. Parked the blazer last night and tried starting this morning with no crank, same sound and action as if the battery was low.

I have a booster that I bought from Canadian Tire, charged it fully, and tried boosting it with the same result, I here the starter engage (click) but the engine makes a weak attempt, I hear it trying (same as before, seems like a low battery). Even though the fully charged, it still doesn't not want to crank. Short of hooking booster cables I am at a loss as I think I would still get the same result.

Also noticed the fuel gauge went a little haywire last night as well, it went from 1/4 tank to empty and low fuel light turned on, some minutes later it returned to normal, it did this twice, and a couple of time before when my wife was driving, within a span of week and a half.

Any advice or information would be greatly appreciated.

Darryl

 

First:
Take the accessory belt off and try it. Or just spin the compressor pulley.
If same-same, the noise is separate issue. One that needs fixed. But if the pulley wont spin and the engine cranks okay, that's your problem.

The fuel gauge thing is probably ALSO a separate issue. assuming nothing else acted strange.

 

Ok, will try that in the morning and report back, raining like a trooper here atm.

Thanks

 

I took tension off the belt rather than remove it via the tensioner, tried moving the a/c compressor pulley and it won't budge, not a bit.

Should it be free enough to move by hand?

I was told by a parts person (not chevy) that I could buy a replacement bracket with a pulley and remove the a/c compressor for now, until I buy a replacement compressor. Is this recommended, or is it even possible without doing damage to some internal parts or electrical?

I have not tried to start the vehicle without the belt on, I will try this later today.
Thanks for your advice gentlemen!

Darryl

 

Your AC clutch bearing is locked.
Now you have a dilemma. If your ac was working well, removing the compressor opens the system and then you have to service it. And the system should never be left open.

Replacing the pulley clutch assy wont be easy, with because it is obviously spun into the snout. Because this happened just as you parked, if a shop got it off, a new clutch/bearing assy might be feasible.. close call. If it had happened while driving there's no way.

What many do rather than buy a delete is get a used compressor from a yard.. reputable yards sell the best first...and put it on there rather than a delete. Even if you dont have time and money for the service it gets you ahead of the game and you can keep the freon system closed.

Just taping the openings doesnt work. If there's a question of enough money or access to salvage yard, then I suppose the delete and go to hardware store and find rubber plugs to close off the lines.

 

The pulley on the compressor rides on it's own bearing. If that wasn't turning, then the bearing has seized up. It can be replaced without blowing the charge, but it does require some special tooling (or good old-fashioned ingenuity). Now, if that does turn, but the compressor does not, you could just unplug the clutch and drive it, but that doesn't sound like the case here.

 

There are replacements available at the local yard. I guess that is what I will do once I confirm that is what is stopping the engine from cranking. My guess it is because I could not budge the pulley at all?

It is totally seized, and it worked fine putting out nice cold air. I do think it seized while driving due to the sound it was making while driving home) but when I tried starting it in the morning after I parked it, it dragged like a low battery, even a boost wouldn't get it to crank. It attempted but with little movement. Voltage meter shows that battery and charge output are within the norm.

I would rather like to replace the unit as then I would be worry free (at least until that unit fails) and the yard offers a limited warranty (1 year). For $200 it is worth it to be free of the worry and hassle. Will one of those recharge kits be ok to fill it again (recharge kit at Canadian Tire for $50) do it yourself kit?


Or is it possible to buy a smaller belt and bypass the compressor all together?
Thanks again!

Darryl

 

Now you're in a whole different discussion.

Dont buy a recharge and just throw it in there.. your AC system will have a very short life if you do.

The system needs - at the least- to be evacuated of air down to at least 27 inches Hg {spec is 29} for at least an hour, before that. Thats a specific purpose vacuum pump.
You should also replace the accumulator.

That's why it might be better to see if you can replace the clutch bearing assy.

There''s no cheap options here.

 

Ok, I figured because winter is knocking and will soon be here, I wouldn't be using a/c, I could just bypass it for now if possible,until the summer comes around again. I am guessing this is not an option.

I really don't mind if I have the a/c or not, even in the summer, hardly use it at all, as temps are mid twenties (Celsius) here in summer.

I read a post that some guy bypassed with a belt (83.5"), but that was all that was said, never stated if he had problems after or not. Curious as to if this would work because atm, I don't have the cash to fully repair until I get back to work next month.

Thanks again

Darryl

 

I'd bet that was a different configuration. Your has the AC above PS on the right, correct?

The answer to that is whether you can see in a straight line from the two adjacent pulleys.
That would be the smooth idler to the PS pump, right? Trouble being then you're have to buy a ribbed idler. And you wouldnt have enough 'wrap around' on your alternator.. so you'd get squeal.