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The EPA Loves the oil my truck is pouring onto the ground

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Old Apr 28, 2020 | 07:57 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Mods
nope, main cap goes on then the pump is held on to the passenger side of the cap, my main concern was somehow changing the pickup screen clearance if i swap the pump for a Melling M155 at the same time.
Buy a new pickup screen, then set the old pump and new pump side-by-side on the bench to check the height.
 
Old Apr 28, 2020 | 11:06 PM
  #12  
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mods
I replaced my old oil pump with a m155hv, changed drive shaft to a milling is55e. I was able to use the oil screen that came off old pump. Clearance has been no problem. Runs down the road with about 45 + and good pressure at low RPM. Ordered on Amazon. Pump is held on with one bolt. Separate from main bolts.
 
Old Apr 29, 2020 | 08:09 AM
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Getting the screen out of the old and into the new pump was always a bit of a challenge. Have made various tools in the past for driving the pickup/screen on....a half-round drift made from a piece of pipe was one that worked pretty darn good. I remember trying to hold the pickup/screen in position with one hand, drift-tool in another hand, hammer in another hand....and then easy taps to get the pickup started....having to do this several times as the position is critical.

 
Old Apr 29, 2020 | 08:21 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by LannyL81
Getting the screen out of the old and into the new pump was always a bit of a challenge. Have made various tools in the past for driving the pickup/screen on....a half-round drift made from a piece of pipe was one that worked pretty darn good. I remember trying to hold the pickup/screen in position with one hand, drift-tool in another hand, hammer in another hand....and then easy taps to get the pickup started....having to do this several times as the position is critical.
I slip a wrench around the tube so it's up against the "bump" and hit it with a hammer. I don't use my good wrenches for that, lol. If you're careful and use some wood blocks, you can safely clamp the oil pump in a vise to hold it. That way, you only need like six hands.
 
Old May 7, 2020 | 12:06 AM
  #15  
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Oil pan gasket arrived in the mail, just awaiting time to get out there and do the repair. decided to leave the pump on and everything as is because i dont own an engine hoist and would like to see the truck on the road before the year is out. So, To be clear - Does the front differential have to come out to remove the pan?
 
Old May 9, 2020 | 08:32 AM
  #16  
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Mods - you should be able to remove the oil pan without removing the front differential. Will have to move the steering link forward by unbolting both the pitman arm and steering box, shoving them forward. Will also have to remove the starter and the oil filter adapter. The engine will need to be rotated so that the front crank counterweights are up...then the pan should be able to be angled down and removed. Oh and you get to fight with those blasted transmission lines.

Looks like I will be doing this as well.
 
Old May 9, 2020 | 03:27 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by LannyL81
Mods - you should be able to remove the oil pan without removing the front differential. Will have to move the steering link forward by unbolting both the pitman arm and steering box, shoving them forward. Will also have to remove the starter and the oil filter adapter. The engine will need to be rotated so that the front crank counterweights are up...then the pan should be able to be angled down and removed. Oh and you get to fight with those blasted transmission lines.

Looks like I will be doing this as well.
It might just be my truck having new(er, 7-8 years old at most) motormounts but there is lots of room between the centerlink and the front of the pan, as in, probably 2+ inches.
 
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