No Captain like I said no DTC,s in memory at all and I am sure I have got the drive cycle rite more then once and I have kept the INNOVA code reader plunged in to see if the evap resets. I am going to call the dealer tomorrow to see if someone can tell me if you have to disconnect the auto headlights or not.I sure wish I had a dyno for 10 minutes that would make it so simple I really don,t feel comfortable cruising at 55 mph with no resistance at the tires.P/S also remember I had to fix the purge control it was leaking air at the manifold just a week ago.But besides that I had this issue once before I pushed the erase on accident and cleared all the im,s and it took forever it seemed like to reset the evap I eventually replaced the gas cap even though the cap and seal was good I put on a locking cap then after a number of attempted drive cycles it reset after about 20 warm ups that,s why I asked if they had anything to do with the im,s but you cleared me up on that.So Captain what do you think about raising the car up on 4 ton jack stands and I will keep the 3 ton floor jack under the rear end other then the free wheeling it will sure speed up the drive cycle even if I have to bypass the headlights.One last question Captain what if I disconnect the brake lights then maybe I could use the brakes to slow the rear end down with out canceling the test.

 

Ok captain since I don,t have a dyno the only other way I can complete the drive cycle in 15 minutes as stated in the drive cycle its self would be my jack it up do the warm up then the 3-5 minute freeway parts with out any delay and no touching the brake.Get them all done in 15 minutes and with the INNOVA tester plugged in and that should give me a completed evap system or a set DTC'.So what do you think Captain would you try it this way or is there a easier way to do it.Because after the warm up I am having to drive to the freeway and that is more than likely canceling the warm up with touching the brake.

 

EVAP monitor is the most involved monitor to complete. I've seen vehicles go days, even weeks, before the monitor will complete. Never tried that before. Let us know how it works out Some of the high dollar scan tools can perform what's called a "service bay test" for EVAP. You don't even need to drive the vehicle!

 

Ok captain did it exactly as required 2 1/2 minute warm up jump on freeway take it to 55 mph for 3 minutes shut off cruse coast to 20 mph accelerate to 55 mph for 5 minute turn off cruse coast to 20 mph then accelerate back home failed again evap moniter still blinking after im sure at least 5 or 6 drive cycles done properly.still no dtc or srs codes

 

Ok Captain I will take your failure to respond to my jack up idea to not be a good one the more I thought about it the thought of blowing up mt transmission or rear end because of no resistance on the wheels. So that idea is off the table for good.So I was checking around online and a just ask mechanic said he would answer my question but what he didn't say was what if it didn't work do I get back my money.

 

Ok Captain I have run almost 200 miles trying to do the correct drive cycle and still no dtc,s Is there something else that can stop the im from running its test cycle with out leaving a dtc because I know I have the drive cycle down pat.Start vehicle all electrical on for 2 1/2 minutes shut off everything. Drive to freeway accelerate to 55 for three minutes coast down to 20 mph accelerate to 55 mph hold for 5 minutes coast down to 20 mph accelerate to 55 mph your done gm drive cycle. Evap im still blinking what would you do next Captain.I am not one to give up on a problem I like solving them I have started testing the electrical and vacuum valves with a new vacuum gauge and a multi meter.

 

Have you checked IM readiness/monitor status with another scanner? There might be a software glitch with the Innova. Seems like another member had a problem similar to what you're describing.

 

Ok captain Have tried everything other then a smoke test for leaks but if its not setting a hard code then its more then likely not leaking here is the answer from just ask that I was reluctant to try but am getting in patient to pass emissions so maybe you can comment on just what he meant because it sounded like no drive cycle was necessary to get the evap to run its cycle.
06 January 2016 03:51
Dr.Carz Dr.Carz
Chevy Mechanic
Well the fuel level must be between 1/4 and 3/4 full and the system will require and over nite soak or 2 this time of year when it gets cold it gets harder to run. It will pull a vacuum and the after 8hr soak or so will pull info on start up. If you have access to scan tool that can perform a purge and seal or evap test will help this monitor along. Here in NY you can have 1 not ready and pass Inspection. Good luck hope this helps driving for miles and miles will not help.Please remember to rate my service and Accept Thank You

 

Technically, fuel level must be between 15% and 85% for the EVAP monitor to run. 1/4 to 3/4 is a safe bet What he's talking about with the "purge & seal" and "evap test", they are things that a high dollar scanner can command, (same thing that I mentioned in post #13). Neither of them will "help this monitor along". They are strictly for test purposes in the shop. If they are performed correctly, you can find out very quickly if the EVAP system can hold vacuum, or not, that's it. To satisfy the IM readiness/status monitor, the monitor must run, and complete. The only way to do that, is during a drive cycle. I've never, ever, heard of a PCM not recognizing the driving patterns of the drive cycle.


EDIT: Are there any DTC's in memory, or pending, before, during, or after you do the drive cycle?

 

So Captain just curious when will it run complete and set a fault if there is one and can you tell me what the specialist meant by warm ups draw vacuum and complete diagnostics on the evap and why 1/4 or 3/4 tank gasoline has anything to do with it.