Ok cancelled the $1,374.00 tire gauge thanks Captain would have been awful disappointed when I received it and found that the most it can do is read the tire sensors.And nothing else like a code reader.You know what I really want is one that reads codes resets the MIL and gives you a place to start for repairs also controls censors and valves like the shops I called one and for $50.00 he would close the pressure sensor I think it is by the charcoal canister so the purge valve will draw the fumes because from there I think the evap might reset.Also asked you once before is the pressure sensor the one by the charcoal canister not in it open always on a blazer such as mine or closed because if i get a smoke machine I can fill the vacuum lines with smoke to see if the pressure control is stuck and if I had the correct code reader I could control the valves to know if there is a problem for sure.Unless its always open then I need to find out how to activate it closed.Going now to try another little test I thought up.took of the gas cap to see if the evap system would notice but it didn't the first time read in the Innova code reader manual that the system is a two trip so we will see today being the second without a gas cap but it might not even work until the evap has run its cycle.

 

Some of the OBDII circuits/systems are monitored continuously such as: TPS, MAF, MAP, ECT, IAT, EGR, CMP, CKP. When a problem is detected, a DTC is set immediately. Other circuits/systems such as the catalyst, oxygen sensors, air intrussive, EVAP, etc, are only monitored under certain conditions. Problems in those circuits/systems will only set a DTC and turn the light on when their monitor runs and detects a problem. As with everything else, there are exceptions to the rules: If there is a hard fault, (open circuit, short circuit, etc) in a non continuously monitored system, a DTC will be set immediately.

So, In the event of an EVAP leak, (removing the fuel cap) it would only be detected if or when the EVAP monitor runs.

I understand your desire to learn more so you can diagnose & repair this on your own, but you need the proper equipment. To get the capability and features that you mentioned, you need to look for a bidirectional scanner, and they are not cheap. Ebay usually has a pretty good selection of decent used ones and they usually start around $1500. Snap on Solus or Solus Pro would have what you're looking for, but be prepared for $2K. Gotta be careful: it must have software that will cover your year of vehicle. Annual updates are $1K only through Snap on. Something to keep in mind: a scanner is like a book, if you don't comprehend what you're reading, it isn't much good. There are no books that come with scanners that explain how to interpret what they are telling you, but there are classes available, at a cost . When you look at the big picture, paying someone $100 to diagnose it, isn't all that bad

 

I have decided that I don't need that much of a code reader like you said I almost bought a glorified tire pressure tester for 1,374.00 thinking it was also a code reader.The INNOVA 3150 is plenty for me easy to use checks im's and recent codes and if it throws a new code you can give INNOVA $9.99 for a month worth of code probability answers and that should be fine for a DIY er like myself.And as far as that evap system like I said the EPA says the evap isn't even enough to fail the emissions unless there is a MIL or a recent code. and if it continues to not complete I have been told its a [possibility that the PCM may have something to do with it. But until that time knowing I should pass emissions just like I have every other year.and until I don't that's the time to worry about it.Thanks again Captain for all your good information and good judgment.

 

Ok Captain got my first code when I drove 35 miles to my parents and replaced the last grommet on the valve cover.Out of the 6 that came with the valve cover gaskets that are to long.I managed to lose one of them some were my guess would be in the frame were it cant be seen by me at all looked every were for days to find that last one because all 6 grommets and the gaskets as well $18.00 but for one grommet at gm dealer they wanted $9.00 so any way that' valve cover is dry on top as it should be. Ok so as I was getting ready to leave my parents I thought In would take a reading from the code reader Once again still incomplete evap im plus a PO107 low input on the pcm Tomorrow I will test the pcm with a vacuum pump to see if it is faulty or if the voltage coming from the OBII is close to 5 volts not running then test while adding vacuum to see if the numbers drop.If they don't I think that's were it need,s to be replaced.Butt the car sure runs spunky if it wasn't for a trouble code i sure wouldn't think there was any thing wrong with that car its quick as a little pistil.Quick as can be and runs great too.

 

Hi Johnny , I got my manuals off of ebay for $60 , they are on DVD and cover all GM vehicles from 1996 to 2005.....all models. It is the GM eSI manuals..... and they can also be found on some torrent sites...well worth the money....sometimes hard to find the info you are looking for , but the search works pretty well.

 

Still have my 3150 Innova code reader that after you get a code you have to contact Innova Pay $9.99 for a month's worth of Possible solutions.And Just picked up the Actron CP 9680 Auto scanner Plus Code connect that I think may be just like the Innova after you get a code if you want most common problems you have to pay for it or look it up yourself.yourself. Don't know anyone have knowledge on these two code readers.And if so what one is the better one I know that bosh is a good brand name and Actron is basically the same company that makes bosh as well.So anyone out there have a review on these two tools.?

 

Basically, a code reader is a code reader. Some will read ABS codes and most won't. As long as you can pull the code(s) it is doing it's job.

As for understanding the code(s) and what you need to fix, that's on you. Pretty easy these days with the internet.

 

They are both abs and srs and I like them both.Today I finally got a code on my blazer today because for a couple of months now the evap system wont throw a code or complete its test cycle even after 12 gm drive cycles.It got a PO107 low input in the MAP sensor.So I pulled it and the grommet was torn a little down at the bottom. So I got out the vacuum pump and the volt meter with a paper clip to back probe the MAP censor harness the gray wire I believe key on not running 5 volts back-probed I then added vacuum at 5 hg's each time and lost about a volt for every 5 hg's That means other then the grommet the Map sensor was fine but of course they don't sell the grommets only. So $70.00 dollars later its running fine evap still not complete but after erase of the code still hasn't come back all day and with any luck it may stay code less and with a little more luck the evap just may complete.I really dont need three working code readers I have one INNOVA with srs and abs it cost me $250.00I will take $175.00 its still brand new only touched my blazer I also have another INNOVA with out abs or srs will take 75.00 for it its like new as well only touched my blazer a couple of times.text me if interested johnnylovsey@yahoo.com

 

Ok Captain been a while since we talked I didn't get the $1,400.00 tire pressure gauge.Just the Actron CP 9680 code reader and it seems to be a good one easy to use and work with.The evap still hasn't run its course and I have put another 100 miles on the car with three more drive cycles.Yesterday the Actron picked up a PO107 map sensor low input code so I tested it when I pulled it out and seen that the Grommet on it was torn a little on the bottom so I guess that's probably why it set that code. po107. So I back probed the harness while it was still plugged in and tested it for voltage it had approx 5 volt key on not running hooked up my hand vacuum pump and cranked it 5 hg at a time and the map sensor dropped 1 volt every 5 hg so other then the grommet the valve was fine.Do they sell the grommet for something like that or do you have to spend the $70.00 for a lifetime one like I did.After replacing it I drove the freeway twice and could have sworn I smelled strong gas fumes on the freeway while driving and the smell is a first time I ever smelt the gassy smell before.Do you think the Map sensor was the reason my evap sensor hasn't reset and now that its been replaced the evap is starting to pull fumes from the canister.And going to reset it's self something has to give its been since before Thanksgiving when it last worked rite.What do you think Captain since the week end after Thanksgiving it still wont complete and until the mass air flow was the first code then po107 map sensor low input found the problem pretty quick torn grommet,what do you honestly think I myself don't care to leave anything un finished like the evap could this cold weather have anything to do with the not complete normally the gas tank warms up causing fumes to expand in the summer but its not warm now could that stop it from completing its cycle test's

 

That's what gets me you know its been since Thanksgiving week end since I fixed the Intake manifold gaskets so I would think by now it wound have completed it's cycle or set a code.But not still be flashing incomplete.You know Captain I do like this Actron made by bosh it has a good feature real time monitoring like for instance the Map I just back probed to get the 5 volt key on not running but I bought a hand vacuum pump that I didn't need to with this feature but I did want one for my tool collection.Because today I was monitoring its operation plunged into the manifold but even so I would have to back probed the connection with the key on.