I stand corrected...***

Smitty: Thanks for those.. But I can see why a dealer tech would screw it up.

In the second image
I take it that is 97 up? It's the one matches my 99.
BUT
What is the fuel filter doing in there?

I'm cutting out the filter, here



***I got spoiled with my foxbodies. At one time I had three complete sets of plastic fuel lines off late eightiies Tbirds {to drop EFI in carb mustangs}

I tossed/gave away two of them. Should'a kept em, maybe. I just checked last summer.. still not brittle!

 

Yeah, it's possible that my diagrams are not 100% correct. As I said, finding the diagrams online (for free) was huge pain in the first place. I agree the fuel filter is wrong, but if you ignore it the rest of the diagram is 'good enough' in my opinion.

I needed to have an idea where things were supposed to run since this terrible shop had run the purge into the gas tank vent tee (@ the pump), the vent (and now purge) to the canister, left the front tank vent dumping to atmosphere, all while leaving the canister's purge line open (or poorly sealed off; I have repressed the memory).

Meanwhile, every steel line under the back half of the truck has pretty much rusted away entirely. I had to redo all the brake lines shortly after buying the truck. The evap lines have been replaced with rubber hose entirely.

As for your dealer tech comment, this was not dealership work. It was an independent place where the prevous owner always took the truck. To give you an idea of the quality of their work, they replaced the rear brake line (from ABS to the tee on the rear axle, iirc) and used the emergency brake cable as an anchor point for part of the brake line's run. Real top notch work, there!

Oh man, I had some fox body Mustangs when I was younger. There were all POS's since I got them after they had been used up. I learned a lot about cars, though, more than I bargained for, that's for sure.

 

aosmitty thanks for the advice. I have to replace both rear springs and shocks on the 99 Blazer 4wd. I was wondering if you know what the clips are called holding on the lines to the canister? Also is there a trick to getting them off with out damaging them?? Any help would be great. Thanks Bernie11

 

Bernie, I guess I would call them "quick connect." I think if you squeeze them just right they will pop off. On my truck we left them on the canister, and then cut the plastic lines about 6"-8" away. Slide a rubber hose over that, use a hose or spring clamp to hold them on. Not pretty by a long shot, but should be effective.

I did a quick Google Image search - here's what I found:

https://i.imgur.com/SM695.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/JyT6n.png

Doesn't look too bad. I wish I could be more helpful.

 

Thanks a lot for the help. I had to remove both leaf springs and rear shocks. I had a bad leaf spring on the passenger side. To get the driver side off I had to remove the canister to give me extra room. The rear shackle bolts were stubborn. But I have the new ones in. I have to run to the part store and get some 3/8 hose for the purge valve solenoid to the canister as you stated previously. I will let you know how I made out. Hopefully with the vent valve solenoid, purge valve, hose and gas cap being replaced this engine light will go off. Thanks Bernie11

 

Hi I have a 96 with a plugged soleniod canister vlv r/r soleniod vlv and blew out lines; still have same problem

 

looking for the part numbered 8 part number or name or anything that might help fix one of the tubes where the 3 hoses conntct