another rear hatch question.ok mine is blowing fuse to the dome light every time i push the rear hatch button for to many times. the wires to the hatch = the ground is not grounding , the hot will not light up the test light.

 

I have a 95 glass goes up, tailgate down. My linkage broke. Knew what had happened b/c the same thing happened on my aunt's 96. Get in the back and pull the panel back at the "hump"(mine pulled back 3" easily. I got my needle nose pliers and tried to get at the latch spring as suggested, but no luck. So i got to poking around in there and found an arm which I pushed down...GLASS OPENED! It's about 1/3 of the way in from the left side of the hump and 1 1/2 - 2 inches deep. Hope this helps...afterwards you open tail gate, take off the trim panel, pop linkage rods out of metal panel on sides, remove metal panel, and there's the actuator/servo. I popped the blue piece off of the actuator, drilled a hole in it, and put a piece of clothes hanger on there. Still working fine. MANUALLY SET LATCH AND TEST B4 RE ASSEMBLY!!

 

Thanks for the info on the repair

 

Possibly the best DIY fix AND explanation on Blazer Forum that I've seen so far for any issue. I was going berserk trying to figure out why my tailgate worked when I loaded the truck but wouldn't open 5 minutes later when I had to unload. I have zero automotive talent but I'm good with directions, and this was a super easy fix based on the help provided here.

FYI the only thing I had trouble with was putting a bend on the coat hanger once it was threaded through the broken blue piston arm. You have to be careful that you don't bend the piston and break it again.

Why Chevy used plastic is a horrible mystery. Anyway, thanks! Great post!!

 

Yes I forgot to mention I have the left glass and rear door type I`ll have to get in and remove all the junk I have inside thats going to be a chore in itself.When I get a chance I`ll read better into this thread to see if it helps me.

 

I have a 99 zr2 blazer and my rear glass will open with the button on the dash but wont open with the button on the back of the truck.... Kind of a PITA any ideas

 

The glass lock must be removed using an 11/16 open end wrench, I think was the size, on the 2 bolts holding the locking bar. You can slide it in from the side and slowly loosen the bolts.
I went through this and found a sheet metal screw, and broke the panel, that holds the top of the panel to the tailgate. I used JB weld to fix the panel.

Unbolt the locking bar and you can open your glass. Remove the screw and the tailgate handle. The rest to the panel then can be popped off, has metal wedge type holders into the tailgate.
More than likely the release solenoid hook is broken off. They are plastic and they jerk on a metal bar to release the glass.
I fixed mine using metal safety wire.
Hope this helps.

 

I agree my panel at the hump is attached very well and will not pull out the 2-3" so I'm going with drilling the hole.
I pulled so hard you could hear the panel wanting to crack into a million pieces. Unless you want to buy a new trim panel you'll have to drill the hole if the internal panel clip isn't already broken on yours.

 

Thanks for all the great advice on how to get my hatch open after the stupid piece of plastic that links the actuator to the mechanism snapped. GM will not sell this easily replaced part, and wants me to pay $95 for a complete actuator to get this $2 part that is just very poorly designed.

My first car was a '57 BelAir 210 with a 283 Quadrajet and a Powerslide transmission. I still haul a horse trailer with my '98 Silverado 4x4 350. The problems I have had with my '03 Blazer have convinced me never to buy another Chevy. This thing is a piece of junk. Every time I fix something another poorly designed piece of plastic breaks.

I'm sure it is not news that the intake manifold in the 4.3 V6 is notorious for developing water leaks leading to very expensive repairs. Mine did it at 100k. Then the water pump went out. Then fuel injection problems. Then tranny. Now the ABS EBCM went out with the dreaded C0265 code, and GM wanted $900 to replace it. I opened it up and replaced the $3 relay instead.

In the "good old days" we could fix our cars with some bailing wire and a hammer. Buying parts at the dealer these days involves bending over. The only thing worse than buying parts from the GM dealer is going to the Toyota dealer. My 2012 V6 RAV4 almost killed me when the throttle stuck at 6 months old. At least my old Chevy won't do that.

 

I still haven't been able to get my glass window or bottom door open.The lock has been punched out.Somebody posted on this thread that you have to go inside raise the carpet,then remove the door panel to get them open can somebody post pics.Thanks