Thanks a lot Captian!

 

Well think I found the problem. My dumba@* idiot self forgot to tighten the dang clamp on the hose on the pump itself. Reassymbling now

 

LOL. good job. Dont feel bad ive done stupid **** too.

 

Yeah it happens. Especially when you get in a hurry

 

Well all seems to be alright at idle and just slightly revving sitting. Haven't had a chance to actually test drive yet but going in just a few mins. Hopefully this fixed it.

 

I am not sure if this will help, but I too am suffering from a similar situation. I have found a wire in the fuel pump that was crossed. It was the light grey and black wire leading from the connection 4 pin at top of the fuel pump assembly. You could hear the fuel pump run, but no pressure. I suspect it was discharging rather than pumping, being these are the positive and negative inputs to the pump itself. After changing the wires around, I still had no pressure at the plenum, removed plenum top half and ran ohm check on PR found, 1.4 resistance which is NOT within specs 1.9 to 2.4. The pin on the top of the PRV is somehow loose, not visibly loose, but when enough pressure was exerted I got readings that were withing specs. I am getting ready to replace PRV today. This what I believe to be one of those intermittent problem solutions we all have experienced before. You can test for ohm resitance without removing the upper plenum half, by removing theair flow sensor, then the plug in top of PRV which is one right side as you look down from the top. If you go this way you can check this out before having to go and remove top of plenum. Hope this may help. Rick

 

If its revving a little,you have either a vacuum leak,a plugged open egr,or dirty iac. Clean it all and test it again. Other then the fuel injection in these engines they are pretty easy to fix.

 

Fuel Pressure Regulator?

From what I understand; some of them work like a check valve.
I could be wrong but Capt Hook will know more about it than I do.

Once you get it fixed, Post your solution please.

Thanks in advance,

 

rick1toknow- I bought a new wiring harness but had to take it apart and put the wires in the correct place. So be forewarned if you buy an airtex harness it is a possibility you will have to remove the wires and move them around, My old harness in the tank was butchered due to an aftermarket pump. My problem was just a dumb mistake I made by not tightening up a clamp so the fuel was leaking back into the tank.

Chris015- The revving was from me oping the throttle a little to see if it was still misfiring or if it would rev up smoothly. Sorry should of specified my brain goes crazy and I don't have complete thoughts always so that is how they get typed.... Incomplete haha

Viper1ex19- My very first original problem was a terrible misfire. The fuel injection spider/ nut kit was leaking to start things off with. Then my old fuel pump ended up weak as well. So a new fuel pump went in. It didn't fix my problem to start with due to the before mentioned loose clamp on the rubber hose that attaches the fuel pump to the sending unit. Tightened clamp and fixed my problem. It was a stupid mistake because I got in a rush the other day and was frustrated.

 

Cochran07, Did you test fuel pressure and leakdown, (see post #2) after the fix?

Chris015, If the EGR valve is stuck open, RPM will drop. When the valve opens, it creates a vacuum leak, which normally would cause RPM to rise, but in this case, exhaust is introduced which causes the RPM to drop.

Viper1ex19, The fuel pressure regulator has a valve that is spring loaded shut. When fuel pressure overcomes the spring pressure, the valve opens, that's how it regulates the fuel pressure. The FPR can leak externally which is fairly common on CMFI systems, (1995 & older). Also, if the valve doesn't seal, fuel pressure will be low and leakdown will be excessive.



The arrow on the left is unused fuel from the injector. The dark grey is fuel, and the arrow on top is the fuel return line back to the tank. On the 4.3L engine, the "vacuum connection" is exposed to manifold vacuum so it doesn't need a vacuum line connected to it. High manifold vacuum, (decelleration) pulls on the back side of the diaphram and the fuel pressure decreases. With low or zero manifold vacuum, (acceleration) pressure increases. This is why you always check fuel pressure with the engine off, (zero vacuum) which gives the highest possible fuel pressure reading, (which is needed on acceleration).