I got the Delphi from Rockauto found a discount code so I paid a few bucks less than posted price and no shipping


To make it easier to drop the tank....ya have any ratchet straps?

 

Yup, crimp connectors and electrical tape should never be used on a vehicle... for anything... period. Always use 60/40 lead/tin rosin core solder and heat shrink tubing to waterproof the connection. Glad you got her figured out.

 

I got the tank out OK after I dropped it far enough to pop the fill hose off. Then I siphoned most of the fuel out and it was much easier to manage. I have a good floor jack so the dropping went smoothly. Now I just have to get the new parts and re-assemble, which as a rule is far easier than tear down. One of the hardest parts of the job was getting the filter out! That sucker was seized in there big time, w/ a lot of corrosion on the flare nut. It's out though, and the dirty stuff is done! Woot! Woot!

Actually though, speaking of corrosion, the fill tube assembly is really nasty looking. Where was the leak on yours, and did you find a good used one?

 

The pump is in, and the truck runs fine. A couple of heads-up hints for anyone else who has the misfortune of their pump going bust:

First off, now that I know the exact position of the pump, connections and how much clearance there is, if I ever have to do another replacement I will start with an air chisel! There is plenty of room between the rear seat mountings and it is in a spot that would be very easy to fashion an access panel to close up after the job.
That said, if you do drop the tank you need to remove the bolt that holds the fill tubes to the cross-member. It makes it easier to refit the hoses when putting the tank back in place. That bolt is a real p***k! To remove it, I used a 5/16 X 1 1/2" bolt with a nut run on until about half of a nut thickness is showing through. Then I added another nut and snugged them together to lock. Using that set-up from below I was able to run the bolt back out of the frame. When I re-assembled, I used a 1/4 X 1 1/2" bolt and a lock nut. Much easier to get the 5/16 wrench in between those lines.
Like Raybz I got the parts from rockauto.com and I am mostly pleased with their service (especially the price, after finding a coupon code for 5% off the entire order) One thing that would have been a problem if I was in a hurry - I ordered the pump, a new filter and a new lock ring (old one was badly corroded). The pump and filter came via Fed-Ex the next day, but the ring took 3 days by mail!

Now the bad news.... I took a quick test drive this morning and when I stopped after a mile or so to check the connections there was a steady drip from the area under the driver's door. Came back home and lifted the truck enough to see what's dripping (fully expecting to find a bad connection on the filter), and found a nasty leak in the break line! So now it's off to that area of this site! Thanks to all who posted, and to those who took the time to read my rants without responding.

 

i put one in my 00 blazer 4x4 yesterday no real issues to speak of. got my oem MU1733 from west side GM in wisconsin for $249. my dealer in Tomahawk wi wanted $459 then told me mine was not oem when i was there for another part, just so happened i had pump,receipt,box with ac delco sticker and whole thing in my truck......parts gut said somebody screwed up price, i informed him i talked to two parts guys at the dealer i bought from and got same price.....a..hole

 

I got a fuel pump off ebay few days ago from a warehouse not to far from my home. Called around to auto zone, pep boys murrays, advance etc prices range from $ 320 - $350. I got mine for $57 bucks no one could believe it, when i removed my original pump I had no fuel gauge the pump made a loud sound when truck was running now after new pump its a slight wishper. All i can say is it pays to shop around.

 

There's a reason for the difference in price Aftermarket pumps rarely meet GM factory spec requirements, so they don't last long in these vehicles, if you get one that works when you take it out of the box. Use AC Delco or Delphi only.

 

I took the advice of the Captain and others who recommended using either Delco or Delphi. I got the Delphi pump, a new filter and a lock ring/o-ring kit and the price from rockauto was $240 w/shipping (after a 5% coupon). One more tip: If you buy the Delphi pump it comes with a new o-ring. I could have saved a couple of $$ if I knew that. Oh, about my last post....that's brake line, not break line, LOL. I must have had fluid in my eye!

 

i admit i too bought a cheap $50 pump, looked good but didnt come with evap sensor which was setting 4044 code in my blazer. old co-worker of mine got me OEM gm and and made me bite the bullet. costly ,but not as easy to change if i had too again. im retired mechanic of 36 yrs and only 2hrs work but still kinda b.s. cuz last guy put reg. bolt in x-member end and you cant get a wrench in there so i had to sawzall it then weld up a t-bolt to drop in x-member so it can be changed again....god forbid. today some 20 yr old kid crossed into my lane with wife and granddaughter in truck, damn near flipped it,if not for high speed defensive driving police course i had opportunity to take yrs ago and late model 1/2 mile ASA car experience...i would not be writing this now.....the kid shmit his drawers when i caught him...thanks for letting me vent guys...good day