My advice, Kess.
Don't do temporary fixes. Pinpoint the problem. Stacking the temporary fixes (like hard-wiring) on top of problems that You didn't troubleshoot is a bad idea. You'll fall into a rabbit hole eventually.

 

 

Yep. I can understand temp fixes if you just need to get to work the next day, and will fix it on the weekend, or something. But don't leave it that way.
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So, you suspect low voltage at rhw fuel pump harness? Have you checked voltage back there, and compared it to battery voltage? I think I had around 0.5v drop on mine, I checked when I was going though my fits with the fuel pump.

Check to make sure you have a good ground, as well

 

I am really wondering if whoever changed the fuel pump, if they cleaned the tank any at all,,thinking strainer could be in bad shape,,also probably the fuel lines from tank to filter. I know when the filter was changed about 1.5 years ago, it was pretty darn dirty, probably need to look at it again and change it,,be the easiest thing to do for now.,what puzzles me is the fuel pressure I am getting when turning the key to run, and the differnce it is when I go direct from the prime terminal,,about 5/6 pounds more, is why I am thinking low voltage problem. I did do a current test on the fuel pump.it is within specs as far as I can tell,,runs around 7;24 amps with turning on with key, and about 6.94 when testing from battery direct using prime terminal on fuse block. Higher current means higher resistance, thus could be bad connections back there..I do know that a Advance fuel pump was put in, "Carquest"...

 

The connection at the fuel pump is used regardless of whether you prime it, or turn the key. If you really do have voltage issues, it's somewhere farther up.

To verify, you need to measure voltage with you priming the system, then, with a helper, measure voltage when the key is turned