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Fuel pump replacement

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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 04:04 PM
  #11  
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Get an AC Delco pump and forget about it.
 
Old Apr 1, 2009 | 05:09 PM
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Go with an Air-tex or Delco. I would not use a Carter. Also, be aware that you will have to completely remove the tank from the truck. You will not be able to just drop the tank half way down and do a quick pump swap. New hose clamps for the filler and vent hoses might make things a little easier when going back together. Dont forget to check for debris in the tank.
 
Old Apr 1, 2009 | 06:29 PM
  #13  
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I stopped installing off the wall fuel pumps a few years back. Carter was the first to go, then Bosch, then switched to Airtex, now we won't install any of them. Several other shop owners around town have gone entirely AC Delco also. Had the worst luck with Airtex, it took 3 tries from the parts store before we got one that the check valve worked properly. It's bad enough replacing it once, but doing them again...for free, suck big time! If you insist on an off the wall pump, at least test the check valve before you go to the trouble of installing the pump. Make sure you replace the electrical connector at the module, (the new module will have it in the box), and clean the ground wire connection at the frame.

Always replace both filters when installing a new pump. The new module will come with the strainer on it, replace the filter mounted on the frame rail also.
 
Old Apr 2, 2009 | 11:54 AM
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Do I need to do anything about relieving the fuel pressure before disconnecting any lines? If so, how do I go about doing that? Also, if so, how do I re-pressurize the system after I'm done?

Looks like I'll be tackling this project this afternoon.
 
Old Apr 2, 2009 | 12:43 PM
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Make sure the ignition is OFF. There's a service port at the rear of the plenum next to the distributor, looks similar to a tire valve stem. Remove the black plastic cap, wrap a rag around the port and gently push the shrader valve in. At the most you'll get about 3 tablespoons of fuel. To pressurize the system, cycle the ignition 3 or 4 times, you'll hear the fuel pump working.
 
Old Apr 2, 2009 | 01:13 PM
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Okay sounds great. I was worried that it was going to be a lot more involved than that...lol.
 
Old Apr 2, 2009 | 10:10 PM
  #17  
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Uggghhh...lol. Okay a couple more questions. I FINALLY got the gas tank dropped. I ended up having to CUT the fill and vent hose. For the life of me, I couldn't get those damned rubber hoses off!! So, I'll be replacing those, when I put it back together.

Now, I hope I can explain this good enough. To take the fuel pump out of the tank, I should be able to hammer this ring around, until some slots line up, according to my almost worthless manual...lol. In reality, it looks like I have a snap ring. I've got this ring that goes almost all the way around. On each end, is a lil' hole. I've seen lots of snap rings before, but nothing this large...lol. Am I way off base? By the time I thought to take pictures of it, it was getting dark. I used a flashlight and my cell phone to take a couple of pictures. If this sounds crazy to everyone, I'll upload the pics to my computer and post them. Any advice??
 
Old Apr 2, 2009 | 10:55 PM
  #18  
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Sounds like a snap ring to me Before you remove the module, clean the crap off the tank so it doesn't fall inside when you remove the module. You might have to spray some penetrating oil on the snap ring to loosen it. Sounds like you're on the right track.
 
Old Apr 2, 2009 | 11:37 PM
  #19  
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pb blaster and some snap ring pliers should do the trick. let the pb blaster sit for about 10 minutes or so before u try to take it off, that will make the job a little easier. if u dont wanna buy snap ring pliers, a good pair of needle nose pliers with narrow ends will also do the trick
 
Old Apr 2, 2009 | 11:46 PM
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Ive managed to finagle all the snap rings off Ive encountered with needle nose

Problems going to be resealing the pump..ive always mangled the snap rings with the needle nose

And yea please post up a pic. Im curious.
 



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