Fuel System Diagnosis- What should I do Next?
#21
So I went to the dealer last weekend to see about that filler hose, and I guess you can only buy the hose along with the filler neck for $120, which they didn't have in stock. I was hoping they'd have it just so I could look at the hose, or that the parts guy would be experienced enough to know the size off hand. Nope.
Tonight I loosened the clamps on the hose to see how stuck they were. The end on the tank moves pretty freely, while the filler neck side is stuck on there pretty good. I used a screwdriver to see if I could free it up a little, and noticed how rusty the metal portion of the filler neck is. Now I'm wondering if I should replace the filler neck anyway since its so rusty. Pics below to show what I'm talking about. Do you guys think I should replace it or just leave it alone? I found it online for a little cheaper, but with shipping it's still ~$100.
Also, not to beat a dead horse, but the part that I circled in post #15 isn't a vent tube, it's a grounding strap. In one of the pics you can see where it attaches to the frame, just below the blurry hose clamp. So still a little confused on the venting system here.
Tonight I loosened the clamps on the hose to see how stuck they were. The end on the tank moves pretty freely, while the filler neck side is stuck on there pretty good. I used a screwdriver to see if I could free it up a little, and noticed how rusty the metal portion of the filler neck is. Now I'm wondering if I should replace the filler neck anyway since its so rusty. Pics below to show what I'm talking about. Do you guys think I should replace it or just leave it alone? I found it online for a little cheaper, but with shipping it's still ~$100.
Also, not to beat a dead horse, but the part that I circled in post #15 isn't a vent tube, it's a grounding strap. In one of the pics you can see where it attaches to the frame, just below the blurry hose clamp. So still a little confused on the venting system here.
#22
As rusty as it is, it won't be long before pin holes start showing up. Then you start getting EVAP DTC's and fuel leaks. If you're going to keep the vehicle, you might as well replace it now and be done with it.
#23
Yeah I figured as much. Crap, another $100. I assume replacement is pretty straight forward, just remove the housing bolts under the fuel door, unbolt filler neck from housing, and do the reverse to install? The ground strap is attached to it also I think. Sucks that this is a dealer only part.
#25
I don't know, I'd be a little wary about getting it from a junkyard. I mean, if mine's this rusty wouldn't anything they'd have be in the same shape? I did a little searching on the local junkyards web pages and no one has it in stock. I kind of live out in the boonies so there aren't any junkyards close to me.
#27
Checked the website and that POR15 sounds like some amazing stuff! Available in a spray can too! I suppose it could be used along the rocker panels before painting, (similar to gravel guard). Thanks for sharing.
#28
I have done countless frames, quarters, truck pans, floors, etc in this stuff. Little expensive, but worth it!
#29
Okay, so I just started and have already hit a snag. Haven't given up yet, but thought I'd post and see of anyone had any ideas while I mess around. Is there any way to get the fuel tank shield off without messing with the leaf springs or breaking it? The side tabs for the shield are keeping the the shield from clearing the springs. I've tried various ways of positioning it but so for no luck. Will keep trying, but if someone has an idea that'd be great.