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Fuel tank fittings -- need special hose tool?

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Old Feb 25, 2011 | 11:07 AM
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Default Fuel tank fittings -- need special hose tool?

Read everything I thought I could see on fuel tank removal; am wondering if I need to buy an inexpensive fuel line removal tool for the fittings connecting to the fuel tank itself, or are they similar to the one fitting on the other end of the fuel filter?

Sorry if I'm violating a rule about double questioning in one post, but by dropping down the tank itself a little and removing the fill hose, will that be enough to siphon the nearly full tank I have?

Tks...
 
Old Feb 25, 2011 | 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by terbates
Read everything I thought I could see on fuel tank removal; am wondering if I need to buy an inexpensive fuel line removal tool for the fittings connecting to the fuel tank itself, or are they similar to the one fitting on the other end of the fuel filter?

Sorry if I'm violating a rule about double questioning in one post, but by dropping down the tank itself a little and removing the fill hose, will that be enough to siphon the nearly full tank I have?

Tks...
I'll tell you what I know from dropping the tank on my 97 4dr, three times! The fittings from the tank/fuel pump can be removed by hand. They're the same as the one from the outlet of the filter, except the center one, but it's only slightly different. You'll see what I mean.

Yes, dropping the rear of the tank enough to remove the fill pipe will let you siphon or pump it empty. You will likely need to loosen the front mounting strap to get it low enough, BE CAREFUL HERE, theres another fitting on the front of the tank and dropping it without disconnecting the hose WILL break it. Don't ask, I don't want to go there. That hose just has common spring clamps. Easy!
 
Old Feb 25, 2011 | 03:02 PM
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i second that, i have been able to remove those connectors by hand, and i always brace the tank with a board and jack, helps control the angle to get in there...also pretty obvious but remove the spare, if its mounted underneath...soooo much easier.
 
Old Feb 25, 2011 | 06:23 PM
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What year is your S10? My 95 had the usual fittings that required the slotted wrenches (don't know the special name for them but they are like a box end wrench with a slot/notch cut out of them so you can slip them over the metal tubing and then slide them down onto the fitting.)

Crawl up under there and either look or feel the fittings to make sure which you have. If you have the type of fittings requiring wrenching be sure to spray some rust penetrating fluid on them a day or so before you do the work and then be careful turning the fittings (be sure you can keep the one end from turning while you turn the other side of the connection or you'll twist and split the metal tubing.

Good luck. Dropping the tank ain't bad, getting that darn short little vent tube back on the front tank vent and keeping it there while you get the strap bolts realigned and started is the real pain.
 
Old Feb 25, 2011 | 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 81Z4ME
What year is your S10? My 95 had the usual fittings that required the slotted wrenches (don't know the special name for them but they are like a box end wrench with a slot/notch cut out of them so you can slip them over the metal tubing and then slide them down onto the fitting.)

Crawl up under there and either look or feel the fittings to make sure which you have. If you have the type of fittings requiring wrenching be sure to spray some rust penetrating fluid on them a day or so before you do the work and then be careful turning the fittings (be sure you can keep the one end from turning while you turn the other side of the connection or you'll twist and split the metal tubing.

Good luck. Dropping the tank ain't bad, getting that darn short little vent tube back on the front tank vent and keeping it there while you get the strap bolts realigned and started is the real pain.
Those are called flare nut wrenches. Good call on spraying the fittings, it sure cant hurt. terbates, if you do have flare fittings, do yourself a favor and g buy the wrenches if you don't have them. They'll save you a ton of headaches!

On my vehicle, as soon as you drop the spare out you can poke your head up there and see the top of the pump and all the fittings, so that might help get an idea of what your up against.
 

Last edited by CO Chevy Dude; Feb 25, 2011 at 09:46 PM.
Old Feb 26, 2011 | 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 81Z4ME
What year is your S10? My 95 had the usual fittings that required the slotted wrenches (don't know the special name for them but they are like a box end wrench with a slot/notch cut out of them so you can slip them over the metal tubing and then slide them down onto the fitting.)

Crawl up under there and either look or feel the fittings to make sure which you have. If you have the type of fittings requiring wrenching be sure to spray some rust penetrating fluid on them a day or so before you do the work and then be careful turning the fittings (be sure you can keep the one end from turning while you turn the other side of the connection or you'll twist and split the metal tubing.

Good luck. Dropping the tank ain't bad, getting that darn short little vent tube back on the front tank vent and keeping it there while you get the strap bolts realigned and started is the real pain.
It's a 99 4 door, with 4.3L Six. (I bet the poor admin. rolls his eyes everytime he sees a newbie forget to list year/make/model)
 
Old Feb 26, 2011 | 02:12 PM
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On the pump assemblies used in the newer trucks, there really isn't room for one of the quick disconnect tools. Just be careful and get push in the clips with a screw driver or small needle nose pliers modified to curl at the end to disengage the fitting.
 
Old Mar 3, 2011 | 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by 81Z4ME
What year is your S10? My 95 had the usual fittings that required the slotted wrenches (don't know the special name for them but they are like a box end wrench with a slot/notch cut out of them so you can slip them over the metal tubing and then slide them down onto the fitting.)

Crawl up under there and either look or feel the fittings to make sure which you have. If you have the type of fittings requiring wrenching be sure to spray some rust penetrating fluid on them a day or so before you do the work and then be careful turning the fittings (be sure you can keep the one end from turning while you turn the other side of the connection or you'll twist and split the metal tubing.

Good luck. Dropping the tank ain't bad, getting that darn short little vent tube back on the front tank vent and keeping it there while you get the strap bolts realigned and started is the real pain.
Tks..I've got it out now, that little vent tube wasn't much problem, I just un-hooked from the other end. I've been delayed a bit on this repair job as I lost the serpentine belt on the other car in the family on the Interstate and had to get it towed. It's been raining/snowing here in Gresham, Or so that was a bit of fun and a waste of a day diverted from the Blazer.

Sooooo glad these tanks are plastic, as I had to do it by myself. Got all the fittings off fairly easy except the last one which broke the plastic tip of the fuel sending unit i/s the fitting, but no big deal. Now just waiting for UPS to bring the Ebay unit I bought and then back up it goes

Thanks a lot for all the kind info that I read on here. Next job is spark plugs!!!
 
Old Mar 3, 2011 | 05:08 PM
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For the amount of work involved to drop the tank, I sure hope you got an AC Delco or Delphi pump and not one of those no name el cheapo jobbies
 
Old Mar 3, 2011 | 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Captain Hook
For the amount of work involved to drop the tank, I sure hope you got an AC Delco or Delphi pump and not one of those no name el cheapo jobbies
I agree.
If it's a Carter pump, consider this practice for doing it over again.
Can't speak from experience with the Mastercrafts (or whatever the popular BOX store units are), but 13 months later, as with the Carter unit I bought, most likely you'll be dropping it again.
 



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