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Fuel tank removal

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  #11  
Old 11-16-2012, 07:24 PM
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Well BB-**** Yes this failure will happen with lots of fuel in the tank!Read all the posts on this site!Its not that bad-just a pita. If you live in the rust belt order up the main strap retainer hardware, as you will most likely have to cut it off! I have seen and heard of folks cutting through the floor,but I can't say as that would be a good idea-however many swear by this method!
 
  #12  
Old 11-16-2012, 07:42 PM
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By main strap retainer, you mean the piece that is a strap on one end and a bolt on the other? When I did mine I bought a clothesline hook for about $2 to replace it.
 
Attached Thumbnails Fuel tank removal-photo.jpg  

Last edited by Truk; 11-16-2012 at 07:57 PM. Reason: picture
  #13  
Old 11-18-2012, 11:16 AM
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In Minnesota, we use salt in the winters to keep ice off the roads. Salt is a natural moisture attractant, any exposed steel will quickly begin to rust. DIRTFT (pronounced dirt foot) or do it right the first time has always been my philosophy.
 
  #14  
Old 03-05-2014, 07:59 PM
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Thats genius with the clothes line hook dealing with the same problem think i'll try to do the same thanks.
 
  #15  
Old 03-27-2014, 05:39 PM
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I was told I need a new fuel tank on my 99 blazer, the lock ring is leaking. I have a plastic tank. I hope to avoid removing the tank to check it, before having a new one here, so I am wondering if the lock ring is part of the tank, or a separate part. Being a plastic tank, are all the parts, seals, lock rings, etc are separate parts. My local parts store has any part in stock, but hope to avoid ordering a tank if I don't need to.
Thanks,
Mike
 
  #16  
Old 03-27-2014, 07:29 PM
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The lock ring is available seperate:
Spectra Premium Lock Ring TR19: Find best Fuel Tank Lock Ring at Advance Auto Parts

The O ring is also available seperate at the dealer, or it comes with a new module. If you're changing the lock ring, replace the O ring too. When you remove the old lock ring, the O ring will swell up and it will not seal.
 
  #17  
Old 08-24-2014, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Captain Hook
Don't forget the vapor line at the front of the tank, it will break off if you don't remove the line.
Let's just say I forgot this today when I was dropping the tank and broke the plastic connector. Does anyone know if they sell the connector insert that goes into the tank? Links are appreciated. Also, is it really even worth replacing, or would some JB weld or something similar to hold it be fine?

Lastly, one of the fuel line connectors going into the fuel pump looks to have been replaced with sum type of metal retaining clip that is different than the others. I've gotten the stem of the fuel pump that went into it stuck in it. I can probably get it out and re-use it, but does anyone know if autozone or advanced or napa sell the connectors in case I need a new one? Again, links are appreciated.
 
  #18  
Old 08-24-2014, 10:07 PM
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We need pictures of both

If the vapor line fitting on the tank leaks fuel or vapor, you will get EVAP DTC's set in memory, and the SES light will come on.
 
  #19  
Old 08-26-2014, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Captain Hook
We need pictures of both .

Here ya go. Sorry about the quality.
 
Attached Thumbnails Fuel tank removal-image-1-.jpeg   Fuel tank removal-image-2-.jpeg   Fuel tank removal-image-3-.jpeg   Fuel tank removal-image.jpeg  
  #20  
Old 08-26-2014, 05:11 PM
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The steel fitting, (with the broken nipple inside), needs to be replaced. If it is the pressure line, (3/8") the replacement number is Dorman 800-082. If it is the return line, (5/16") the replacement number is Dorman 800-080. These are type of clamps that you need: Autocraft 3/8" Automotive Fuel Injection Hose Clamp (4-Pack) AC52F16V: Get the best Hose Clamp at Advance Auto Parts Do not use the worm gear style of clamp in the image.

The vent fitting should also be replaced, no guarantee if repairing would work.
 


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