Is it normal for these things to "just fail"? This pump is only 2 years old and while I believe it is a possibility, I still would like to rule out the instrument cluster and the wiring.

By the way, if I have to replace the pump, how easy is it to do myself? What special tools would I need? I realize I would need jackstands to support the vehicle at all 4 corners and 2 floor jacks to support the tank, but how do I unhook the fuel lines and remove the ring that locks the pump in place?

How can I MAKE A HATCH in the floor? I really do not want to have to deal with dropping tanks again. Thanks

 

You can do it yourself, it just takes time and patience. I learned everything about my Jimmy from this site, so if I can do it you can. You don't need to put all four corners on stands, just drive the back end up on ramps and take the spare tire out and you'll be good to go. Though I have heard some people taking the left rear wheel off, but for me it wasn't necessary. The locking ring comes off fairly easy with a hammer and punch. You're supposed to use a brass punch to prevent sparks, but I couldn't find one at the store so I just used my normal one. Didn't blow myself up, but it's something to keep in mind. Don't do anything stupid, since you really could start a fire easily if you're careless. Fuel lines are quick connects, easy to remove once you figure out how to release them. Be careful with the middle one, I broke mine. Here's a diagram of quick connects. Plastic Collar Quick Connect Fitting Service - Chevy HHR Network The outside ones are #1, and the middle one is #3. No special tools needed, just sockets and extensions, hammer and punch screwdrivers, etc. If the present pump in your truck has the old wiring harness, you will need a soldering iron and solder.

 

That was mistake #1, mistake #2 would be putting money into the level sender, only to have it fail again in another 2 years. $40 - $80 extra could have bought an AC Delco or Delphi module to begin with, and, you wouldn't be looking at dropping the tank again There's a reason we recommend AC Delco & Delphi parts; they work and they're worth the extra money

 

Are there any computer modules (except for the PCM) that are involved with the gas gauge? I spoke with the shop owner who replaced my caliper today (funny thing was he was replacing the fuel pump on a Trailblazer and he was having a hard time getting the tank back in) and he said there might be a module under the dash which is connected to the fuel gauge. Only modules I can think of are the BCM and TCCM, but they aren't critical for engine operation like the PCM is.

 

Data from the fuel level sender travels to the VCM through the purple wire. All communication between the VCM, BCM, TCCM, EBCM, and instrument cluster, is all class 2 communication, (serial data).

 

Your mechanic is thinking of the fuel level buffer modules found on the 97
I am pretty sure they only used that device on one year. It is found under the dash glove box side.

Gas gauge:

 

Responding on the topic of fuel level sender and pumps, i'm learning how to test the air-core motor that operates the gas gauge before I replace the pump/sender unit.
I have a TRQ unit purchased online. Interestingly, the TRQ ("Trusted Reliable Quality" apparently, $74) site responded to a negative review by saying that the pump motor is lubricated by the fuel. I am hoping this means that refilling the tank at three-quarters empty will keep it healthy. Actually, I'd never heard of TRQ before, but the price was right. We'll see. Is AC Delco's unit that reliable?
BTW, I tested the resistance across the sender signal and ground tabs and got the required 253 and 43 ohms, full and empty.
Nobody will see this post, I know, but hey ho anyway.

 

Your question about fuel pump reliability was answered in this thread by one of our most respected members who gave excellent advice.


George

 

I now have this sender issue (pretty sure anyway). I reclaimed the blazer from the kids and to get it home, I had to jump it, add air to the tires, and since the fuel gauge was bottomed out, I thought I needed fuel. Started pumping gas and it stared pouring out within a minute.. I was really flummoxed.. its empty ( I thought),, in reality, it was almost topped off. So where can I get the codes read.. and being an old fashioned grumpy old fart.. who decided that this was a good idea?

 

Scanners:

https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...24/#post734213

or your local parts store can read them for you. Any basic code reader will give you the basics, Actron is a good brand but if you’re going to be fixing your own truck then the advice is the thread above is the way to go.


George